Pipes knocking

sgm

Thanks for responding;
No insulation was removed from the pipes, and the pressuretrol has not been working for approx 10 years. Had a pro over at that time who told me that in a small residential system like this, no pressuretrol was necessary.
The knocking started last year because the main vent was totally clogged and froze up. I had sort of ignored the whole system as long as it worked ok.
The clogged main vent caused me to check/replace all radiatior vents at the same time and ensure proper pitch of the radiators. Once climate conditions allowed, I drained and refilled boiler water approx 1 gallon at a time till all was clear in the viewing tube.
Set the Hoffmann 1A's on 1 and opened the Hoffmann 500's just a smidgeon.
System fires up, everything is normal, all radiators get hot, but then the knocking starts, which to me seems like a condensate problem.
But if I do need a pressuretrol, is it possible to install a new one on the old boiler, and how bad a job is that?
Finally, have read the radiator vents should be set based on radiator size, not on distance to boiler. (approx 15-20 feet in any direction except bathroom with 12 feet)
Is there a rule of thumb to set them by?
It's great to be able to go through a learning process like this, though the reason for it is not so great.
Tks - SGM

sgm

one pipe steam heating, pipes knocking

Bought this house in 89, heating sytem was working fine all these years. House is 22 X 43 on a north/south axis with living and dining rooms on southers exposure, bedrooms north, and bathroom in between.
Heating system is an old CRANE cast iron boiler with a gas burner in front. Risers are 2 7/8, main is 2 3/8, feeders to radiators 1 11/16.
System started knocking last winter. I took following action:
Living room radiator-48 long, 20 fins, 20 high, 6 1/2 deep, cast iron - pitched it 1/2 inch to feeder pipe. Hoffmann 1A valve.
Dining room radiator-42 long, 17 fins, 20 high, 6 1/2 deep, cast iron - pitched it 1/2 to feeder pipe.Hoffmann 1A valve.
Bathroom radiator, low profile, 34 long, 10 high, 2 1/2 deep, pitched it 1/2 to feeder pipe. Hoffmann 500 valve.

Masterbedroom radiator, low profile, 77 long, 10 high,
2 1/2 deep, Pitched 3/4 to feeder pipe, Hoffmann 500 valve.

Small bedroom - 30 long, 12 fins, 20 high, 6 1/2 deep, cast iron, pitched it 1/2 to feeder pipe. Hoffman 1A valve.

I also put in a new Hoffmann 4A on the main pipe, and recycled water to ensure all is clean.

Knocking persists and I'm suspicious it's the radiator vent settings. What venting rate should I set them for and is there anything else I shoud do?

This old handyman, yet not so expert heating system fixer will appreciate any advise I can get from the real experts.

Brad White_9

What is the pressure setting?

Had any changes been made to the pressure setting (cut-in/cut-out)? Was the sytem otherwise worked on? Drained, re-filled but not cleaned?

Unusual for such a sudden change of status unless something was done or you had an earthquake that re-oriented the pitch...

Unknown

Brad's

Brad's right on this point, was any insulations removed? Better yet, get a book called ," You got steam!" from this site and you'll be a better informed customer with this system...

Brad White_9

NO pressuretrol???

If you ran your system without a pressuretrol for ten years then I have to imagine there were times when the relief valve lifted (Thank God) and you had some spillage. Hence make-up. Hence new fresh oxygen, mineral (no vitamins). So you wonder why your vents plugged up?

You would not run your car in cruise control without a high limit. The pressuretrol is not only an efficiency control but indirectly a safety control, not to be relied upon as such but it prevents the pressure from getting anywhere near the danger zone. You should be able to heat with less than a pound of pressure; who knows how many pounds you have run from time to time?

Speaking of running- that contractor who said you did not need a pressuretrol? Tie up your Nikes and go.

clammy

bottom cleaning

Perform a water side cleaning of your boiler ,remove plugs or drain valve on boiler and use a small diamater tube attached to a garden hose and hose out the bttom or water side of your boiler ,have some one install a pressuretroll set it at 1/2 cut in and 1 pound cut out ,banging noises that i have encountered are either improper pitch on mains and or raditors , bad raditor supply valves and of course dirty water side of the boiler which hinders the boiler abality to produce dry clean steam when a steam boiler tries to steam that has dirty water and mud in the water side of the boiler usually produces steam very slow and very wet causeing the steam to condensate and water hammer next .It may be time to bit the bullet and find a pro at the above listing before promblems get to serious peace and good luck clammy

Unknown

what the ****!!?

The "pro" that told u u don't need pressrtrol on the system is NOT a pro and should be hanged from his ****! I hoped he's being reported to some agency, god knows how many other systems or jobs he been on or working at the orange box stores. Its like driving a car knowly that have no brake... Buy the book and HIRE A REAL STEAM BOLIER PROFESSIAL, Brad, we may save some lives here...