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Replacing IP gravity heat w/PEX
Steamhead (in transit)
Member Posts: 6,688
for this type of system. Most times when I take apart old hot-water heat system piping it looks like new inside. Your system must have had a lot of fresh water added over the years- maybe a previous owner drained and refilled it every year?!? Either that or you have some nasty water in the Spokane area.
We've all experienced old galvanized water supply pipe failing, but that's a different situation. Fresh water flows thru these pipes all the time.
Since your system is in such bad shape, I'd go ahead and repipe it. Usually any radiator below 100 square feet EDR can be fed with 1/2-inch pipe. If you use PEX, be aware that the fittings' inside diameters are less than that of the pipe itself. So to get enough flow I'd use 5/8" or 3/4" PEX from about 40-100 square feet and 1" above that. This will keep velocities down so the pipes won't be noisy. Home-run everything to a manifold with balancing valves near the boiler. Add thermostatic radiator valves in rooms you want to run cooler than the main house.
This is definitely a job for a pro. I know we have some pros from Washington State or Oregon here on the Wall but can't remember who they are. Try FAP as outlined above.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=367&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
We've all experienced old galvanized water supply pipe failing, but that's a different situation. Fresh water flows thru these pipes all the time.
Since your system is in such bad shape, I'd go ahead and repipe it. Usually any radiator below 100 square feet EDR can be fed with 1/2-inch pipe. If you use PEX, be aware that the fittings' inside diameters are less than that of the pipe itself. So to get enough flow I'd use 5/8" or 3/4" PEX from about 40-100 square feet and 1" above that. This will keep velocities down so the pipes won't be noisy. Home-run everything to a manifold with balancing valves near the boiler. Add thermostatic radiator valves in rooms you want to run cooler than the main house.
This is definitely a job for a pro. I know we have some pros from Washington State or Oregon here on the Wall but can't remember who they are. Try FAP as outlined above.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=367&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
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Comments
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From 1910 IP gravity - 2006 PEX circulating radiant
I have a great little 1910 bungalow that I'm restoring. A considerable amount of walling is open right now, so I'm thinking it's time to replace the old iron pipe radiant water gravity system w/PEX.
My question(s) are:
1. Is this a DIY project? I've worked w/PEX before but never with a home heating system. Any good books to recommend for a home owner.
2. I know I'll need O2 shielded tubing in the walls. My neighbor had his system replaced last summer and from the looks of it the system seems pretty simple. My concern is repiping the expansion tank, adding a circulator, etc. around the boiler.
3. What size piping should be used. I know in the gravity system, the path of least resistance is the upper run. But my understanding is that the circulator changes that to the lower floors. Do most systems use restrictors on the lower floors, or would the individual radiator regulators take care of these adjustments naturally?
4. Are there any brands of PEX that are better than the others?
5. I'm considering piping the radiators myself and having the boiler, expansions tank, bypass, etc. done professionally. Would most contractors steer away from this?
Thanks in advance!!0 -
Why
would you want to do this? Unless the system has taken on a lot of fresh water over the years, it's probably in very good condition. Once the corrosive elements in the water are used up, no more rusting or corrosion takes place unless fresh water is introduced.
If the system is still running on gravity circulation, it probably means the boiler is rather old. Here's where replacement makes a lot of sense from an efficiency standpoint. Make sure you choose the proper circulator- go here for details:
http://www.heatinghelp.com/newsletter.cfm?Id=125
I'd strongly advise getting a pro to look at this. Try the Find a Professional page of this site to locate one near you. If you're in the Baltimore area, contact me.
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gravity feed and PEX (Part II)
The house is in Spokane, WA and I won't be back there until August so you might be right with regard to having it done professionally.
The boiler is about ten years old and it's doing just fine. The only complaint I have with it is that it's developed a "buzzing" sound over the years and the noise seems to find it's way through the pipes upstairs (wierd, I know).
The piping has had it's share of failures. Prior to moving in, the upstairs hardwoods show signs of a previous repair. I had a union fail on the kitchen radiator last year, there are two radiators which really don't heat well any longer, and one pipe joint that started seeping at the end of last winter.
I really think most of the plumbing is original. How long can that old iron pipe keep plugging?? The idea to change it out now has a lot to do with the walls being opened right now during the restoration.
Is it possible to just fit the existing boiler, expansion, and bypass piping (which seems fairly new) with copper PEX manifolds and run PEX to the individual radiators?? My guess is that the large diameter iron pipes wouldn't be very efficient with a non-gravity type system.0
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