How close can I solder to a threaded connection?

ALH_4

Loctite 592 and 565 seem to be fairly tolerant of heating.

Bill Schmitz

Soldering near threaded connection

I am installing the primary loop on a new condensing boiler with 1" copper. There are a few places where I need to use a threaded connection, such as at the spirovent air eliminator and the pump flanges. It would be very convenient to screw together these threaded connections before soldering. However, I am concerned that the heat of the torch will mess up the pipe dope (I am using rectorseal #5). How close can I solder to a threaded connection? Right at the adapter? At the next joint?

I can find no guidance on this through the pipe dope manufacturers web sites. I have searched Oatey, Rectorseal and others.

I did a test last night and soldered an adapter that had been installed with pipe dope the day earlier. I saw a bubble emerge from the threads. The adaptor is a simple 1" male thread to 1" sweat.

Regards, Bill

jackchips_2

This is

a personal method only Bill-I always soldered the adaptor to pipe before installing.

We'll see what others have to say.

Good question.

Jack

grumpyplumber_3

threades to sweat

Teflon tape instead of dope.

Rich L.

Solder

I'm with Jack, from personal experience (and because I was taught that way) I always solder the adapter on first and then assemble the joint.

One thought, Spirovent now makes units with solder joints. You can get the same thing in ball valve flanges, then no adapters are needed.

Rich

ScottMP

I'll join the group

I always solder the adpt first and then thread it. It also helps eliminate bending the fitting out of shape when its installed.

Jack, I think we're long lost brothers

Scott

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John Starcher_4

Me 2

I do the same, wherever possible. If I absolutely have to solder the fitting AFTER it's threaded into something, I apply copius amounts of teflon tape and then pipe dope to the threads. Keep the torch flame aimed "away" from the threaded joint when soldering, too.

Starch

hot_rod

Hot Dam, is what you need

I put some to the test this weekend on a solar panel. I silver brazesd right against the side of the aluminum case with this stuff. works great, re-usable also.

hot rod

John Starcher_4

I have been....

...generally fairly successful with Megalok.

[Deleted User]

i routinely use a hot damn type product,

nu-calgon thermo trap, on critical/reversing valve refrigerant lines, silver braze temps, and i've had no problems yet. slimey/messy, but it washes right off with plain water

hot_rod

I have used the paste and fluid type

heat block also.

this Hot Dam is more like PlayDough (sp) or modeling clay. Form it to the shape and remove it after you solder. A little bit gets hardened and wasted, most just gets balled back up for reuse.

It's fairly dry so just wipe the crumbs away with your glove. Neat stuff and it doesn't freeze or go bad. at least not so far.

hr

MIke_Jonas

Anybody ever..

think of using ProPress? Then you can leave your B-tank at home like I do, using it as a door stop.

Tilmon_2

heat and threaded connections

Pipe dope does not "seal" a threaded connection(thread sealant does but a connection done properly with pipe dope is better), it simply lubricates it allowing you to screw the fitting in further. What I am saying is that if you screwed the adapter in properly it will not leak after heat has been applied to it. Once the adapter is threaded in, the pipe dope has finished it's job. I do a lot of repair work and sometimes soldering the adapter before treading it is very impractical. Soldering the adapter after it has been threaded in has never, ever caused me any kind of problem. I hope this helps.

EBEBRATT-Ed

I always solder the adapter first and then screw it in. As this is not always possible I use a wet rag to keep the threaded portion from overheating

You have to be cautious when doing this as you still need enough heat to "make the joint". Experience helps.


ED

Unknown

I make the thread connection first

Dope it up , wrench it in and then solder the pipe into the adapter . While it's still hot I wrench the adapter into the fitting even more ( the heat almost always makes that tight , cold connection loose again ) .

This has to be done only if soldering heat is within a few inches of the adapter .

Unknown

Funny

because we have leaks at threaded connections ( where high heat was applied ) quite often . It happens most of the time between a copper by male adapter and a circulator flange . Wrench one in at room temp , solder it and see if it's still wrench tight .

[Deleted User]

hot damn!

now i really like that less messy play dough idea
gonna get some tomorrow

EMC PLUMBING

sweat flanges

I too always sweat the connection first, but lately i have been using the sweat air elimitators, as well as sweat flanges, just saves time and extra cost of male adapters
good luck
Ed

mtfallsmikey

Geez alert!

I have not used Hot Damn, but wet rags....anyway, I've always soldered adapter to pipe first, but sometimes can't be done...then try to keep the heat back off the adapter as much as possible