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ti200 questions

Gerry_4
Gerry_4 Member Posts: 4
Thank you for both of the responces.
The control settings are where they should be if I am doing the math correctly. I used the formula in the operation manual and then checked the control, the numbers are all where they should be +/- 4*. These are the numbers preset by the factory.
I do have an outside air sensor and that reading matches my thermometer.
The fan runs continuously.
I did notice a rumble when it cycles after I turn the power on.
The burner stays lit for approx. 5 sec. I haven't timed it but watching the glass observation window and listening to it cycle, it isn't very long.
It took 5hrs to raise the water temp 10* last night.
Should I be hearing a change in the fan speed?
Did these units have trouble with the air switch?
There are NO error codes showing.
I am trying to give all the info I am aware of, so if there is any other info needed please ask.
Gerry

Comments

  • Gerry_4
    Gerry_4 Member Posts: 4
    ti200 problems?

    I am in northern Michigan and installed a Trinity Ti200c about a year ago. It heats the house with a 4 zone, under floor hot water system. Although it was a DIY install, I did extensive research and had the help of Houseneeds, where I bought the system. Had no problems last winter but this week the burner will not stay lit. I have cleared the condensation line, the one from the air switch to the air inlet(it was blocked with water). Every thing that I can check against the settings outlined in the manual seem OK, water temp, air sensor, etc. It is heating the water but VERY slowly. Also my propane usage is extremely high, 460 gals in 6 weeks.
    What can I check? ANY help will receive my undying appreciation!!!!!
    Gerry
  • bill_71
    bill_71 Member Posts: 46


    two years, it could be just a dirty flame sensor. the unit is shutting off and trying to restart, it will sometimes catch, sometimes not........take a ma reading before you touch it and then take a reading after and see what the change is if any. other then that did you douyblecheck the setings on the controller? dif at 20?hi fire up at 200? does the unit start smooth or with a rumbling?
  • Dave Stroman
    Dave Stroman Member Posts: 761


    If it does not stay lit, how is is heating at all? How long does it burn before it shuts off and recycles? How long are the exhaust and air pipes? Does it flash any error codes? If it ran good last year then something might have changed. Check the gas pressure both before and after it fires. Did you do a combustion analysis? Propane boilers probably need the heat exchanger checked and cleaned every year. Try disconnecting the air intake and see if the boiler will run ok.

    Dave Stroman, Denver
    Dave Stroman
  • Dave Stroman
    Dave Stroman Member Posts: 761


    The fact that you had water in the air tube does not sound right at all. Remove the wye fitting in the condendate drain and make sure that fluid has not backed up into the heat exchanger. Remove the flame rod and make sure it is clean and straight. Remove the air inlet pipe and see if the boiler will stay burning. How long is the air and exhaust pipes? If it was an air switch problem, I do not think it would light at all. Has there been any electric work done there lately? Reversed polarity can cause this problem.

    Dave Stroman, Denver
    Dave Stroman
  • Gerry_4
    Gerry_4 Member Posts: 4


    First, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
    I disconnected the air intake and the unit functioned as it is supposed to. Your comment about the water in the air tube opened a new line of thought.
    As Sherlock Holmes says "when all other possibilities are eliminated, the one that you are left with has to be correct, no matter how improbable". (or something like that).
    In considering the start-up sequence, the only way I could think of that water could get in the air tube, which is a vacuum tube, was if the intake was mixing with the exhaust. I used a Concentric Vent Termination kit with a horizontal setup.
    The joint at the Y inside the chamber had separated, it appears to have not been glued in place.
    It is fixed, glued properly, and the boiler is working perfectly.
    Again THANK YOU to all who gave thought and advise!!!!
    Gerry
    Also, if, in the course of disconnecting the intake air supply, you happen to break the plastic nipple that connects the intake elbow to the air switch, the crimping barrel inside a red wire connector is the perfect size for a temporary repair. Just peal the plastic cover off and the barrel slides right in tight.
    Gerry
  • Dave Stroman
    Dave Stroman Member Posts: 761


    Did you reconnect the air intake pipe? Does it still work ok?

    Dave Stroman, Denver
    Dave Stroman
  • Gerry_4
    Gerry_4 Member Posts: 4


    Absolutley. Everything is working well within the normal operating range. It has been about 9 hrs. and it hasen't missed a beat.
    Thank You for all help.
    Gerry
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