Radiant floor sensor location

hot_rod

fits any 1/2" pex that is CTS. For a bit more money those SharkGrip couplers are nice. That's a 7/8' size in the picture.

I like the Viega FostaPex, it is also 5/8 od after the aluminum skin is removed.

I'd rather install the sensor conduit from below if possible, but if that is a sheetrocked ceiling it would need to go in before the rock. It takes that short bend out of the equasion if you can drop into the joist bay and pop up in the panel system.

hot rod

Brain Ross

Radiant floor sensor location

This is the first time i'm using a screw down radiant panel system under a wooden floor and was wondering where and how the floor sensor should be installed.

Most of my slab installations i run a short piece of 1/2" pex with the sensor located in the tubing at the time of the pour. In fact i've known of installer whom inserted a piece of electricians wire snake inthe tubing so they can easily remove the sensor as well.

Any ideas?

hot_rod

same method

as you would for a slab. Use a piece of pex with a copper piece at the end for better thermal connection. I use those spun shut pex stub outs crimped onto the pex. Or build your own with a piece of copper with a cap soldered on.

Then bring the other end of the pex to an electrical box where the t-stat will mount, or any other accessible location.

I also have a sacrificial fish tape I cut pieces off to feed in the sensor.

hot rod

Brain Ross

Great idea

hot rod,

I like the idea of using some copper at the end of the senor run. how would you vary the application for screw down radiant panels installed after the sheetrock. how would you secure the sensor pex tubing to the studs.

I was thinking to leave a tail of thermostat wire at the floor plates and during my install I would fish them out of the wall and bury two small wire nuts.

thanks.

hot_rod

At the top end

I use a Unibit to drill out a plastic electrical box.

Slide the pex in and use some Tube Talons or what ever to keep the pex tight to the stud. At the bottom bend the pex as tight as possible to stick into the room and panel system. Pap works great for sensor conduit.

If you need to couple on to the sensor conduit buy a compression coupling that fits the OD so you don't have a coupling inside to snag the sensor.

Ideal makes some great super flexible fish tapes. A thick nylon type works better then those old, stiff flat steel fish tapes.

I prefer to solder the sensor leads to the t stat wire and use a heat shrink cover. Wire nuts just don't like to be fished

Automotive supply places have heat shrink crimp splices also. Crimp then melt for a nice clean splice.

I love this tekmar/ Uponor dual stat. I don't like the tiny wiring space and the fact you have to buy an optional cover plate to cover that 2"X4" electrical box.

They could kill two birds with one stone if they made the whole stat larger, the American way!

hot rod

Brain Ross

Radiant floor sensor location

Hot Rod,

Again great ideas, infact soldering and shrink tape are my choice as well and nylon fish tape is a brilliant idea.

So if I understand you correctly, you would pre-install the electrical bos with the pex conduit into and terminate in the floor plate and then during the panel installation after the sheetrock you would use a od sized coupling to extend the conduit out into the floor.

What type of od coupling would work well.

In addition the Uponor wall plate, which I've used often definately gives a more professional look to the job.

Thanks.

MechTech_2

Salb sensor for in joist

Does anybody have any good ideas for chasing slab sensors for in-joist (suspended pipe) retrofits, other than not doing in-joist.

Brain Ross

radiant sensor location

hot rod,

i see what you mean by the compression coupling. more on the ceiling below, on this job the basement at my request will be sheetrocked toward the end of the job. i still believe that the basement should be rocked last agfter the mechanicals have been somewhat tested.

that in mind, after you drop down how do you establish your conduit so it allows for sensor removal.

by the way how do you like the viega fostapex/ i find its great for running neat heat loops. only thing is that you need to give some thought to layout, ie. how are you going to fit the tool in a tight spot. my next favorite system is Uponors expandable pex. not realy a big fan of the sprinkler type stainless steel clamps.

hot_rod

Actually...

the sensor could fasten to the bottom of the subfloor and be installed, in the condiut, before the lid is sheetrocked. It won't read the EXACT floor surface temperature, but so what. The homeowner will just adjust the temperature to their liking regardless of what the display reads. The main thing is to have that sensor input.

I feel it is crucial to have that sensor removable and replaceable. I have seen sensors not work from day one! HTP outdoor sensors come to mind for some reason..

In a way that was a nice feature of the early Euro stats that arrived here. They didn't have numbers! Just a red and blue circle. Crank it till you are comfortable, who cares what the number is We fuss too much about that magic 70F comfort number.

hr

Brain Ross

gotta agree

hot rod,

as long as your comforatble who cares. however, does this mean you could take a chance of over heating a wood floor?

ba

hot_rod

that tekmar

allows you to program a "not to exceed" temperature. Pick a reasonanble temperature and plug it in, in the INSTALLER mode, then flick the switch so the homeowner can't over ride that.

That's another great feature of that stat the ability to lock out certain parameters.

hr