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Heatloss

Brad White
Brad White Member Posts: 2,399
One thing you have going for you is a ModCon. 160 F is WAY too high for your floors.

What I would suggest are panel radiators to supplement. Veha has a nice and not too expensive line. Runtal in my opinion, are one of the better ones but cost more. Short answer is, "what is your budget?". OK, that was a question..

I would figure what your floor is worth in BTU's per hour at an 83 degree maximum surface temperature, maybe a little less, then make up the difference with panel radiators. Rule O'Thumb is, for every degree difference between floor and room temperature, you will get 2.0 BTUH per SF out.

An 80 degree floor in a 70 degree space will get you 20 BTU's per hour per SF of radiant floor.

A place to start, anyway.
"If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



-Ernie White, my Dad

Comments

  • Doug Clark_2
    Doug Clark_2 Member Posts: 2
    The DIYer Blues

    Hi all I have been working with the Slantfin Heat calc program. To see "after the fact" what temp I should have my boiler running at. It is a NYthermal ti150c/outdoor reset. I have figured the heatloss to be 81565 btu/hr total I have Radiant infloor downstairs and slantfin 30 upstairs. The big problem I have is the old house has cedar floor joists and is really not done correctly even though I put as much 1/2" pex as I could and used extruded plates plus installed 2" SM insulation against the plates. The floor in the living room just doesn't warm enough even at 160* boiler output. It does go off on temp but just doesn't feel like the other rooms. Is there any ideas out there that could help in this little problem?
  • jp_2
    jp_2 Member Posts: 1,935
    whats below?

    the 2" insulation?

    whats the floor temp at? supply & return temps for the floor?

    surely the floor pex isn't running 160F is it?
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