BOILER FLASHOUT part 2

john_181

I have to get a gauge and check it out. Every time I light it up it scares the hell out of me!!!!!!!

Also there is NO regulator on the gas meter (none of my 7 meters have regs). I tried turning down the reg on the boiler but it was already all the way down.

When I test it....should I connect the gauge over 1 jet and plug the others? Or ???????

john_181

MORE INFO

I checked my boiler BTU rating input and it is 288,000. I also clocked the gas meter. It uses 1 MCF every 15 seconds! Is that too much gas? Every time the valve opens - it flashes out 2 feet out the front and back of the boiler and it also blows a flame out under the exhaust hood! I did notice the pilot light is about 3 inches above the burner - I don't think this will matter too much but I am going to move it closer.

Also, could I cap off 2 of the 3 burners and have only 1 burner operating? I am not concerned on how fast it heats up - the building is vacant. I just feel there is too much wasted gas. suggestions please...................

Ken_40

Sounds like...

It's way overfired.

Don't plug a burner, turn down the stat.

A gas pressure gage is in order (or U-tube manometer.)

You should have around 3.5" w.c with the tube tight over the rack orifice. See what you find and get back. This IS a major issue you need to resolve before blowing up the building!

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Ken_40

This is NOT for the ...

faint of heart, only cheapskates like me(;-o)

Get a 4' length of plastic tubing that snuggly fits a gas orifice.

Drop the burner rack off the orifice and push the tube over the tip. Leave the remainder racks in. Make sure the test tubing is clear of the ajacent flame!!!

Shape the tube like an umbrella handle, making sure the water you put in does NOT back into the orifice - or gas manifold! put enough water in to make a 6" tall vertical space forming a 'U'. Get a ruler and mark the level of the water in the tube 'U'. make hash marks with a magic marker at 1/2" intervals up to the 6" point.

Remember, if the watr moves up one inch it will also move down one inch on the orifice side. This equals two inches of water column )one inch up on one side equals one inch of movemenet - but, the other inch of down motion is also yet another inch of water movement. Therefore the one inch of movement actually is - the plus one - and minus one of both - combining to make 2" of actual "work" not the incorrecly presumed one inch you might think.

Whatever the rise in inches, double it to accurately determine true gas pressure in w.c inches.

This is the poor man's gas gage. It is also a great tool when you have no gas gage or U-tube in the truck at 11 PM on a Friday night in the middle of west Jabip.

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john_181

CooL way to make a gauge..... I had to run it last night here - it was 7 degrees - BRRRRRRR!. I made sure I did not leave it run when I was not there.

I will take a reading and get back to you.

Unknown

John I strongly suggest

you get a gas heating professional to look at this system. The flame should not be coming out into the room and the pilot 3 inches above the burners does not sound very good. Get a pro before you get hurt or damage your building. This is coming from someone with over 45 years in the gas industry.

john_181

Just an update. I checked the gas pressure at the manifold....it is 4.0" w.c. I still plan on having it checked out. As for the pilot light - I moved it closer and it fires alot faster. I am going to add a second pilot to see if that helps too.

scrook_2

John

Adding a second pilot if not designed for that system will void any warranties and safety ratings. Listen to what Timmie told you he is not only well experienced but a well respected instructor in the industry. As an oil guy I just this week did a call that cost over three hours labor, and a few not so cheap parts. This happened because the guy was trying to save a half hour labor charge which would have been all he needed to spend. Do you want to spend even more money or someones life?

Leo

john_181

OH, I agree! I plan on having it done right. As for warranty.....if it still has a warranty from 1955 - please let me know - LOL. It is an old unit that I just fired up now and the to warm up my vacant building. But when my tenant moves in in the next few weeks - OUT IT GOES. I just had to fire it up now and the to warm it up a little to keep the pipes from freezing.

Mitch_5

Drain the pipes and apply anti freeze as needed

Don't mess what you don't know about. I would not even try some of what you are doing, I have five licenses and over 26 years of experience.

I don't care about you just the person that is walking in behind you that gets hurt or worse.

Also the more you mess with it the harder you make it to fix.

Mitch S.

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john_181

I don't plan on doing anymore to it until I have it looked at to see what is needed.........I have not fired it up since the big flashout. Can I use standard green antifreeze in there or ?????

chris_95

propylene glycol

You should only use propylene glycol in a heating system. NON TOXIC!! Automotive antifreezes are extremely toxic and shouldn't be in heating loops!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

scrook_2

1MCF or 1 CK per 15 sec.

It uses 1 MCF every 15 seconds! (1 thousand cubic feet in 15 seconds?) that's 240,000,000 BTU/hr! However if it's 1 cubic foot (~1000 BTU) in 15 seconds, that's 240,000 BTU/hr -- a LARGE residential boiler, but as your boiler's rated 288,000 BTU/hr input then you're in the ballpark.

Get a pro out to look at it, something's out of kilter with the burner, and if it's that old (and possibly grossly oversized) think about ultimately replacing it.