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what tool ??

bob young
bob young Member Posts: 2,177
BURNHAM makes an assembly tool for erecting sections w/ push nipples. don't leave home without it.

Comments

  • jeff_25
    jeff_25 Member Posts: 110
    what tool ??

    I would like to hear what tool you guys you to set push nipples into sections?? jeff
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    No tool required.

    Simply be certain the receiver is spotless, the nipple as well, use a small but even coat of Never Seize on both surfaces and insert one end of the mating surface, maybe a block of wood to set one side, being sure to make it square (as opposed to cocked) and place the mating section in place and join via the tie rod or if none extsts, a clamp large enough to to squeeze the two faces flush - assuing complete engagement.

    Clamp might be blocks of wood on either side, and those pipe clamp type screw clamps, wood backed chain and come-along, any home-made form of "press," etc.

    The two halves must be pressed into place. This is no time for a hammer or beating. It's about constant, even, pressure over as large an area of the surface as practical.

    Having seen boilers and radiators taken apart and re-assembled or simply made as new at a factory, I never saw a "tool" that has the correct properties. Unless of course a press working on the two parts - not the nipple itself might be considered a tool...

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  • Matt_67
    Matt_67 Member Posts: 301
  • jeff_25
    jeff_25 Member Posts: 110


    what is the tool? is it for boilers or baseboard? because all i have used is a wood mallet but lately a good dead blow hammer to set one half of the push nipple then use the hydraulic set from burnham to pull the sections together. yesterday started putting a k5014 togehter it seams like all the nipples set hard the last little bit. only got all the nipples in each section will but the block together monday
  • Matt_67
    Matt_67 Member Posts: 301
    I don't know the name

    we call it the baseboard tool. it's like a very large heavy needle nose plyer with the tips cut very short with cams that act to provide extra leverage. the tips fit into the cast flanges where the bolts go.

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  • Matt_67
    Matt_67 Member Posts: 301
    renting it

    its worth buying if you do any steady amount of cast iron baseboard but all our local supply houses have one to rent

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  • jeff_25
    jeff_25 Member Posts: 110


    is that for baseboard or boiler sections
  • jeff_25
    jeff_25 Member Posts: 110


    i'm doing boiler sections
  • Matt_67
    Matt_67 Member Posts: 301
    sorry

    i thought you were talking base board. for boiler sections we use unistrut and threaded rod with 1/2" drive ratchets and sockets . it's best to position the unistrut centered with the long dimension. as ken said above seat the nipple completly into 1 section using a block of soft wood then align the next secton and pull in using the unistrut rod setup. on larger boilers use multiple setups. always watch that you are pulling in evenly. if one side starts to get ahead use a wood wedge to seperate slightly then procede again. if one side keeps trying to pull ahead insert wood wedge to allow other side to catch up. hope this helps.

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  • Tombig_2
    Tombig_2 Member Posts: 231
    Tool?

    Brute force and ignorance...oops I mean intelligence.

    Both mating surfaces laquer thinner clean. Slight smear of high temp silicone. Draw ever so evenly with manpower then draw bolts. Wooden mallet or sledge hammer with wooden block/buffer. You can feel the bolt/nut give with each whap of the hammer. Nice and easy till the surfaces mate. Move on to the next section. No magic formula here.

    Same as the "Dead Men" sans silicone
  • or use the

    Or use the rubber gasketed boilers for ease of installation and timewise..
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