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obtaining a boiler

Not sure I want to be the first one to answer you......

I guess you first question is, what boiler do you want?

Dave Stroman, Denver

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Comments

  • fatty_2
    fatty_2 Member Posts: 54
    I don't know how this question is going to be received... but

    I'm a long time lurker. I've been designing a small heating system for some time now. I have every piece I need... save for the boiler. I haven't tried to purchase one yet, because most suppliers won't sell one to the public. I understand their reasons for that entirely. believe me. I've studied very hard and I'm thrilled to put this system together - it is only for my own use, in my own home. i'm not a pro. i know it, but i would like to be one day.

    I realize this may rub a lot of people the wrong way... I am asking: How does a person buy a boiler on their own? you can use email if you don't want to advise me publicly. or at all. i understand. i will gladly answer any questions about my design strategy. i'm in philadelphia.
    thank you
  • radioconnection_2
    radioconnection_2 Member Posts: 70
    DIY

    One caveat, you will lose the manufacturer's warranty on a DIY. Not that the block is worth that much, but if it fails for any reason you won't have coverage.

    Pete
  • Jason Best_2
    Jason Best_2 Member Posts: 1
    boiler

    Well it's public knowledge so..... Ebay, of course, I've seen many brands there. or a website called Houseneeds just to name a couple...
  • fatty_2
    fatty_2 Member Posts: 54


    yep i saw all those options. i just got really specific with my design and wanted a simple CI burnham. i ended up buying a Laars minitherm jvt050n. i was concerned about it being a copper fin boiler... and despite all my calculations... afraid i'd end up with condensation issues. so here goes nothing.


  • Dumb question, but do supply houses request a lic # or a tax id #?? If the latter, a trip to Town Hall to fill out a form and opening a DBA at the local bank could be done in short time.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040


    Follow the piping examples in the manual. P/S piping is a MUST!!! Do this and you will get max life from the unit. Ensure proper flow rate through the HX and use a TV for boiler protection.

    Tim
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • fatty_2
    fatty_2 Member Posts: 54


    thanks timco. i had two designs on the table, and one has a primary loop. i was actually favoring the non p/s system because there was something about the p/s loop i never got my head around. i just don't feel as confident in my p/s design. i have to rework it now to fit this boiler.

    here is what troubles me:
    primarily- I want to move about 5gpm across the heat exchanger. The boiler supply and return are 1 1/4 npt. What way is there to slow the flow down but to neck down or throttle the primary loop?

    secondarily- for me i have 4 zones in my secondary circuit. if i have all 3/4" zones calling for heat and a maximum flow rate of 5 gpm's... that reads like an awfully slow ride to the radiators. it worries me, design wise. seems that the secondary circuit could 'eat up' all the flow from the primary loop - which again brings me to wonder how the primary loop can both feed the circuit and maintain the loop while running only 5 gpm... now i've hit a wall.

    i'll attach a picture of the basic lay out for anyone willing to take a look. it would have a ESBE valve depicted if i could find one to buy, but i haven't been able to. i'll keep looking.
  • fatty_2
    fatty_2 Member Posts: 54


    jd - whats a DBA?
  • radioconnection_2
    radioconnection_2 Member Posts: 70
    Danfoss TV

    Patriot Supply for the Danfoss valve.

  • tim smith
    tim smith Member Posts: 2,807
    Nice little drawing

    Rather than the pressure differential bypass, consider a variable speed pump for secondary (system pump) loop. Wilo stratos or kind. I would have opted for a condensing or cast boiler over the fintube boiler but oh well. Looks like you are thinking in the right direction although. Tim
  • Plumdog_2
    Plumdog_2 Member Posts: 873
    P/S or Bypass

    If you google up the I&O manual you will find that niether a bypass or P/S is required with the smaller units, IF you don't have more than a 30 deg. temp rise across the heat exchanger. That being said, if you are using an outdoor reset, why not get a Mod-Con?; all that stuff is built in, the venting and combustion air is positively to the outdoors, they are designed to operate at low temps, and besides, IT'S 2007. (Energy Star) Maybe a pro could oversee the house piping, and supply and install an efficient unit WITH a warranty.
  • scrook_2
    scrook_2 Member Posts: 610
    a \"Doing Business As\"

    Also known some places as a "fictitious business name", "assumed name" or "trade name". It's used for an unincorporated sole proprietorship, partnership, etc. and links your *legal* name(s) with the *business name*, e.g. Willey Coyote DBA "Acme Boiler Company".

    Once done, you go to the wholesaler and tell them you're Willey from Acme Boiler and you need a Binford 6100 super condensing, quadruple fueled, 99% efficient, cast unobtanium sectional boiler, a pipe stretcher, some malleable pre-crossthreaded fittings, etc...
This discussion has been closed.