Dripping Radiators

Mark_96

Any ideas?

Mark_96

Dripping Radiators

I had to disconnect several of my single pipe steam radiators to redo the floor below. Now I have reconnected them, as tight as the coupling will go, and they are all dripping water when the steam is entering them. Can't tighten them any more. Any ideas?

Thanks

Dave_4

May we assume you meant...

Union nut?

If you had to raise the floor, a coupling might be what you meant, but assuming it was the union nut you refer to, here's the fix:

With the union nut slid as far back as possible (so you can see the two mating surfaces of the joint, examine the line-up of the two halves of the union. The two halves should align both vertically and horizontally so that all of the radiator 'part' aligns inside the valve extension 'part' - perfectly. Prior to reconnecting, both mating surfaces must be clean, have no rust and the threeads on the nut and mating surface thread of the standing pipe be spotless.

Do NOT put any pipe dope (paste or tape) on the joint or threads! A minute amount of lubricant (Never seize, vasoline, crisco, motor oil may be put on ONLY THE THREADS to reduce joint binding of the nut as it is drawn up tight with a LARGE pipe wrench and snugged up.

Remember, this union does not seal at the threads! It seals at the surface of the internal machining of the union's two faces. The threads merely force the two faces tight enough to be water and steam tight. The actual threads are NOT a leak point - merely the area the leak inside is seen as it drools past the outyer most aspect, which so-happens to be the nut. The nut threads are NOT the point of leakage, the internal surfaces that mate are.

It is important to be sure no thread lubricant (if that becomes the route you take) gets into the actual mating surfaces inside - or, within that area of the joint. The reason? The oil will ultimately return into the boiler water and create a priming/surging nightmare that will make what you have now look like "a minor issue."

One thing critical. Each angle stop/union maker used their own thread and mating surface contours. Maker A's union never seems to match maker B's mating surfaces, despite the threads seeming to match up or: Maker A's mating surfaces are fine - but, the threads are different.

BTW, the threads on an angle stop/valve are NOT standard pipe thread. So, if you are attempting to put a coupling on an angle stop thread, fawgettabowdit. Conversely, if you switch radiator Y with Z on purpose or accidnetly, there is a high probablity hey are not both built with the same manufacturer's pattern.

Let us know what you find.

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Mark_96

I did mean union nut, just didn't know the word for it. I think the LARGE pipe wrench might help. I've been using large adjutable pliers. Thanks for the help.....off to Home Depot to buy a pipe wrench.

Dave_4

If you're going to invest in a pipe wrench...

either buy a gypsy brand 24" or a Ridgid 18".

The Ridgid 18" with a 12" "cheater" pipe attached will provide easy take up on any angle stop radiator valve you can find, as well as serve you a long time for any pipe wrench needs forever. The cheaper brands will work, but putting acheater bar on an inferior product may bend the handle if you get heavy on it.

If you're using large (over 14") slip joint pliers, that should be adequate - provided you have cleaned the mating faces with steel wool or a green rescue pad with the steel wool embedded abraisive; AND cleaned (and lubed) the threaded part and union nut adequately.

If you're using ChannelLocks in the 12" or less size, even well cleaned threads/nuts may be tough to snug past the leaking tension needed.

A dab of lube on the collar of the nut also helps. A Q-tip might be the applicater of choice to get one small dab on that "draw-up" edge of the nut.

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