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Munchkin 09 code help

Leo G_101
Leo G_101 Member Posts: 87
that is the typical setup nowadays for the condensate.

Just had a similar situation with a 80M. Replaced both the rectifier and the ignitore - TWICE! Now this boiler is the worst setup I have ever seen for a Munchy, so it probably is a totally different thing.

But if you have had the boiler in operation for a season, it should be completely serviced. Opened and cleaned, combustion analysis, screws holding the burner on should be cleaned as this is the path to ground for the rectifier current, etc.

As the prof says, "these are not your grandfathers boilers!" They have to be serviced.

Leo G

Comments

  • Joe_115
    Joe_115 Member Posts: 6
    Munchkin 09 code issue

    I have a munchkin 140HA that has been running fine for a year. Got a no-heat call today and it was showing a 09 (No flame detected) code. I Cleaned the flame rectifier, vacuumed out the condensate line in case it was plugged up, and I still have the problem. (and baby it's coooold outside!) Then I replaced the flame rectifier & Still the same. The burner lites for about 4 seconds then shuts down. 3 cycles and it locks out. Oh & the flue pipe is clear also. Any Ideas out there??

    Thanks
  • J.C.A._3
    J.C.A._3 Member Posts: 2,980
    YEP...

    Condensate drain plug, or lack of the "vent hole" in the connector after the fixed condensate trap.There SHOULD be a hole in the barbed connector between the shaped trap coming off the boiler, and the connected condensate drain. If air can't get in...water can't get out.

    Experience teaches! Chris
  • Joe_115
    Joe_115 Member Posts: 6


    The plug in the tee has a hole in it and it was clear. I vacuumed ou the line and I still had the problem. Might the factory trap be plugged?
  • J.C.A._3
    J.C.A._3 Member Posts: 2,980
    Joe,

    The trap coming off the back of the boiler should have a "barbed" fitting..going straight into a condensate line..and the barbed fitting should have a hole EXPOSED on the condensate line side.

    I know not of any tee that should be there....but would like to see a picture if there is one. Chris
  • Joe_115
    Joe_115 Member Posts: 6


    On this model, ther is a barbed fitting dierctly on the bottom of the boiler. Then ther is a rubber pre-formed trap that comes out to the side of the unit. Thne that goes into a 3/4" tee that is barb x thread x thread. The branch of the tee faces up and has a plug in it that is drilled for air to enter. The outlet is threaded and that goes to the drain. Sorry I won't have a picture until tomorrow.
  • Pinball
    Pinball Member Posts: 249


    First of all, read the service section of the manual.then check all parameters (flame rectification, gas pressure, CO, and CO2.Check your gas pressure with a mannometer. If it's LP check to see if the regulator is "freezing-up" (may need methenol in tank). Also with the burner removed, inspect the target wall, if condensate is backing up, there will be signs of it on there. In addition, look at the front refractory and see if it is actually touching the flame rectifier. sometimes this will do it. And MOST IMPORTANT set up flame with a digital anylizer! Makes sure the flame rectification is reading about 3.8-4.2 on highfire.
  • tim smith
    tim smith Member Posts: 2,839
    Munchy lockout

    You must pull apart and clean out heat exchanger of debris (looks like coffee grounds) brush w/ nylon brush and flush out with water, vacuuming out through trap at same time. Clean all grounding surfaces on burner mounting ring back and front to get good ground to face plate. Make sure all is clean and will probably make problem go away. Then check w/ analyzer for proper combustion. Tim
  • Joe_115
    Joe_115 Member Posts: 6
    Still no joy...kinda

    Guys, all this help has been incredible, THANK-YOU! I have gone trhough everything and still wind up with the same problem. My local ditributor spent over an hour with me today and he finally got the Munchkin Rep to call me direct. After all was said & done, they believe that the main board has gone bad and will be replacing it. So, fortunately, this was a change out from forced air/waterheater to Radiant/side arm & the original equipment just needed to be re-fired until we get basck up. Again guys, thatnks for all the help & suggestions... it's great to be able to pick a lot of brains to try to solve this.

    Joe
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