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Boiler changeout proposal
Mark Eatherton
Member Posts: 5,858
Thats a DINOSAUR. A three cylinder carbon monoxide generating, fire breathing dragon.
They should realize a MINIMUM energy reduction of around 30 percent.
What really needs to be done, and this is the RIGHT time to do it, is a "real time energy audit". Numerous ways to do that, but easiest would be to have them NOT turn their thermostats down at night for a few days, then when its cold outside, record the energy consumption over night by reading the gas meter at 5:00 PM, and again at 7:00 AM. This way, you get a good idea of how much energy per degree day the building uses, also discounting for any internal gains and or solar gains. This way, you have a good idea of your basic energy needs, and if need be can extrapolate it to "design conditions" whatever that may be for your area. You'll be suprised at how largely oversized the current configuration is, which is to your advantage, because the new modcons you'll be setting will idle to the real time load, instead of bouncing off the high limits as the current system does...
Oh, and while you're at it, get rid of that red tagged DHW carbon monoxide generator sitting there too. Set a reverse indirect DHW heater and give them energy savings during the summer months as well...
If you go with the Knights, they have a real cool 2 wire bus interface to cascade the boilers, and its like watching a symphony from behind the curtain when they start working together.
Off hand, and based on my field experience, I'm guessing that you will be able to reduce the size of the physical plant by 50%. If so, go with two modcons. Much better turn down ratio.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
ME
They should realize a MINIMUM energy reduction of around 30 percent.
What really needs to be done, and this is the RIGHT time to do it, is a "real time energy audit". Numerous ways to do that, but easiest would be to have them NOT turn their thermostats down at night for a few days, then when its cold outside, record the energy consumption over night by reading the gas meter at 5:00 PM, and again at 7:00 AM. This way, you get a good idea of how much energy per degree day the building uses, also discounting for any internal gains and or solar gains. This way, you have a good idea of your basic energy needs, and if need be can extrapolate it to "design conditions" whatever that may be for your area. You'll be suprised at how largely oversized the current configuration is, which is to your advantage, because the new modcons you'll be setting will idle to the real time load, instead of bouncing off the high limits as the current system does...
Oh, and while you're at it, get rid of that red tagged DHW carbon monoxide generator sitting there too. Set a reverse indirect DHW heater and give them energy savings during the summer months as well...
If you go with the Knights, they have a real cool 2 wire bus interface to cascade the boilers, and its like watching a symphony from behind the curtain when they start working together.
Off hand, and based on my field experience, I'm guessing that you will be able to reduce the size of the physical plant by 50%. If so, go with two modcons. Much better turn down ratio.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
ME
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0
Comments
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boiler changeout
Hi all,
I serviced this boiler this week, changing the relief valve, boiler feed valve, tridicater gauge, motor mounts, coulper and bearing assembly on the residence pump. I suggested they would save big bucks with a boiler changeout. Our salesman came by while I was working on it and asked what I wanted.
Here is my suggestion. Put in two or three condensing boilers with a primary loop, boilers and zones as the secondaries. Replace the expansion tank with extrol tank or tanks and install spirovents. Use variable speed pumps to replace the current pumps and leave the zone valves. Also install isolation valves all around!
Please let me know if that is a good idea or bad or what would be the best way to replace this boiler!
We have Munchkin, Knight and Prestige condensing boilers available. Venting would go 60 to 70 feet.
Funeral home was built in 1961 and the boiler is original. Each section of the boiler is 250,000btu and the far left is not used.
Would be happy to answer any questions!
Thanks Don0 -
Yes,
I`ve seen those modular type before, and he would most definitely see savings if going M/C`s.
Take a good look at the TT Prestige units, venting length should be no prob.
Dave0 -
I gotta ask
What are the 3 saddle taps for? Or don't I need to know.0 -
CHANGEOUT
Iwould take a look at the Burnham CHG 94% modcon ....The hands down best bang for the buck...0 -
I can only guess, but,,,
I would assume they are for venting air. You close the gate valve and open the tap valve and bleed the air out. That is what I did, trying to get the residence downstairs zone working. Never did get warm water, but a lot of air. I will be replacing the zone valve next week and the W/R 3-wire also, that zone is not working either. I hope that will fix them, but not real positive.
Don0 -
Change out
Mark E. -looks like your two Knights are on tables. Big flood danger down there?0
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