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PICTURES hot water system running backwards - fixed
Mike T., Swampeast MO
Member Posts: 6,928
If I had to guess, I'd say not long after WW-II.
Those massive, high water content iron boilers were well suited to gravity flow, but no so well-suited to forced flow. More modern plain iron boilers have far less water content, smaller HXs and typically operate in unison with the circulator on a call for heat.
Those massive, high water content iron boilers were well suited to gravity flow, but no so well-suited to forced flow. More modern plain iron boilers have far less water content, smaller HXs and typically operate in unison with the circulator on a call for heat.
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Comments
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old system fixed
Hello everyone,
I am posting some pictures of my old boiler system in a building I just purchased. It did not seem to be operating correctly. I mean the HOT water (luke warm in this case) was leaving the bottom of the boiler and the rads never got hot????? After some extensive emails with Brad White...the system has been changed and the system is flowing correctly once again. THANK YOU BRAD FOR ALL YOU HELP!!!!! The problems were this: for one, the circulator pump was installed backwards fighting gravity. Also, there was no valves to stop the flow of water when changing the pump (what a mess)now fixed with valves. The expansion tank was too small for this big system of 28 rads. with pressures reaching in the low to mid 20's. Also, the expansion tank was connected to the wrong side of the system. There was no safety equipment installed - now there is. The system is running fine now !!!! It get up to temp and the rads are nice and HOT and the pressure is a max of 18 lbs. I have read some other postings about systems being maybe backwards - if I can help in any way please email me.0 -
THANKS AGAIN BRAD !!!!!!!!!!!!0 -
If anyone has any questions - please ask0 -
Low to mid 20's pressure is typical ....
with a system at peak temperature. Also, it looks like your next task may be to provide boiler low temperatuer protection from all that radiation. The boiler should be reaching a minimum of 140F to 160F in less than 5 to 10 minutes of the beginning of its firing cycle. If not you can nearly guarantee condensation in the boiler with excessive corrosion of the boiler and often early chimney failure.
I have heard of several situations were pumps were installed backwards especially on Triad boilers from the sities...these pumped out from the bottom of the boiler and worked great that way.
Boilerpro
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
Return Water Protection
was the next order of business, once the pressure issue was under control and safeties were installed, Boilerpro. Thanks for reinforcing that.
John and I had a little fun with this one, "by remote"; I in Boston and John near Pittsburgh.
John, -thanks for posting the update. I am not sure the final was what I was envisioning, but the fact that it works and holds steady on pressure and has safety devices now is what really counts. You should get a pro in there for a combustion test and check out regardless as part of our conversation."If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"
-Ernie White, my Dad0 -
I have ordered another aquastat to help maintain the boiler low temp. Now the boiler takes about 15 mins to reach 145* then the pump kicks on. I do see condensation on the pipes lately because it has not been too cold here and I would be lucky if the unit runs twice a day. Any suggestions ?????0 -
Old high-volume boilers like that are usually set up to constantly maintain the aquastat setting in the boiler with the thermostat controlling only the circulator. A warm-weather shutdown control (typically set at about 55F outside) is an inexpensive and worthwhile control.0 -
So you are saying I should keep the boiler at 180* all the time? Right now the t-stat fires the gas. Any other suggestions?0 -
Every similar system I've seen has the aquastat set between 140F and 160F--usually 140F. Simple mechanical reset can be added. Gravity systems with old (typically greatly oversized) cast iron boilers seem nearly immune from condensation damage even if you use full reset. Efficiency will increase somewhat, but don't expect any miracles unless you use a condensing-modulating boiler when you can almost expect 50% fuel reduction at the same inside temp setting(s).
While my timing was nearly perfect, my "most expensive residential mod-con in the world" is on track to pay for itself material wise early in this, it's fourth heating season. Skeptics in my own family are impressed as they insisted that not only could efficiency never increase so much, but that it was utterly foolish to replace a perfectly serviceable plain cast iron boiler that probably had decades of remaining life.0 -
OK.....I see where your coming from. Any idea of how old this unit is? It is a PENNCO boiler.0
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