Water heater as boiler

hot_rod

Actually on those tank type systems a brass float type air vent high on the tank works well after a good power purge.
The domed top on water heaters is a good collection point for air, if a vent spot is provided that should be enough.

I doubt the anode rod is the problem and removing it would void the warranty.

A closed dedicated system I assume?

hot rod

John Faust

Water heater as boiler

I have a radiant system that supplies water to a baseboard and the return is run in the floor. The water heater is a typical direct vent domestic water heater. I have a continnual air problem and no signs of any leaks. I've heard that the anode rod could be giving off a gas as it corrodes - giving me my air problem. should I remove the anode rod?

hot_rod

What type of air purger?

Glenn Sossin_2

Always new water

Is this heater also being used to supply domestic hot water? If so, that could explain things. You are always introducing new cold water. Heat brings air out of solution so this could be your continual source of air. Think of what happens when you fill a fresh pot of water on the stove and start to heat it. All those little bubbles start to form on the sides.

I would suggest considering a powervent / air seperation device of some kind like a Vortex from Taco, a Spirovent from Spirothrem, a powervent from Honeywell, a discal from Caleffi etc.

Glenn

John Faust

Thanks for the input. I have an air scoop with automatic vent up at the ceiling. The heater is not used for domestic hot water - it is dedicated to heating system.

zeke

If your system is "open", the air collects at the highest point and since makeup water is needed only when hot water is used, the air should be automatically removed at the point of hot water usage assuming that the HW usage point is above the highest radiant locations.
Otherwise you will need to automatically purge above the highest radiant emitters.