radiant under gyp-crete

Plumdog_2

Why would the Gyp-Crete contractor advise against putting the tubing IN the Gyp-Crete? Have these guys done this before? You might want to suggest that they try a different company.

flipper 52

radiant under gypcrete

Haven't posted in quite some time, but here,s my problem. Actually one of a few I can forsee on this project. Home going up in Southampton,L.I. approx 34,000sq feet.Whole second floor is to be floated with approx. 11/4"-11/2" of gyp-crete, eccept in bathrooms. Heating is a mix of hydronic air-handlers and radiant. 15 bathrooms just floor warming, master suite primary heat radiant, secondary hvac, also master guest area is set same up the same way. Architect/engineer wants to do a staple-up system in all areas. The bathrooms seem fine to me because it will be 3/4"sub floor and duo-rock then tile,so heat transfer will function in these areas. My concerns are in the two bedroom areas. In master there is heated space below,but going with staple-up the total flooring thickness will be 3/4" advantec subfloor, gyp-crete, as discribed above, then either 3/4" hardwood or padding and carpeting. Guest area does not have heated space below, open porch area on north-west side. Subfloor and gyp-crete with wood flooring or padding and carpeting as finish. Wood flooring and-or padding with carpet glued dirrectly to gyp-crete. Gyp-crete contractor advised Architect and GC not to put tubing in the gyp-crete.So my question to the radiant gurus is this, Can this design work. Thanks in advance for your in-put.

Paul Pollets

Best application...

...would be 11/2" GypSpan embedding the tubing over the subfloor, not underneath the floor joists. 1) it is the optimum thermal mass for heat transfer. 2) it soundproofs and fireproofs the home 3) "Staple up" applications are 30-40% less efficient and require higher temperatures 4)staple-up on LI will require transfer plates, at least, and possibly supplemental heating through air handlers or wall panel rads. A heatloss must be done on radiant software to determine the correct loads. I would not let the architect direct the method of heating, nor the correct applications. Find a qualified pro in the area or email me and I'll refer someone who has done many a large home. BTW, Your Gyp guy should be fired for not having the right info.

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Weezbo

i am somewhat curious as to the lack of the word...

Insulation in the topic under consideration.....

yet you mention all the Insulative floors and floor coverings...i personally don't like the idea stopping the train and getting back on will be a deal stopper in my way of seeing what your architect is considering ...

Flipper52

insulation

I failed to mention the insulation as I thought it was a given. The floor joists are 12" tgi's. they are using a type of 5/5"sheetrock that is extremely dense, equal to 5 sheets of standard 5/8. this would be installed on the underside of the top peice of ribbing, then the cavity filled with fiberglass insulationand another finished layer of the same 5/8 rock. I am the second contractor brought in to design and install the radiant areas. Even though I came highly reccomended, this is the first time I met with the GC. He is looking for validation and documentation about any changes because he has been led astray before. I plan on meeting with the uponor rep and a member of there home comfort team that I have worked with in the past on some of my projects.I plan on going over my idears with them and see what they say. As I said, I just need back-up to present changes to the GC. Iknow this is one of the best places to come for advice when and to bounce idea's around.

Don Regan

Do you have 2.5\" - 3\"...

to work with total or are you stuck with the 1.5"?

tim smith

Bedroom radiant

I have not been too much of a proponent for radiant floor heat in bedrooms, especially w/ Gyp. Most people like to sleep in a cool bedroom and then wake up in a warm bedroom. With the high mass floor heat, you cannot cool down the room in a reasonable amount of time and you cannot heat it up in a reasonable amount of time for the wake up time. This has cropped up on jobs in the past w/ some projects where owners complained about being too hot during sleeping hours or inversely too cold 1st thing in am. Just my take on it, Tim

Rich Kontny_3

Did......

One of them guys from Enron or Tyco get out? Or has the old CEO from Home Depot relocated near you?

Just Curious

troy_8

radiant virgin

Fire the gypsum applicator. I'd put money on the fact that he isn't pouring gypcrete but a knockoff. There are other good gyp products but this guy is obviously NEW, Inexperienced and about to screw up a good job. I've been pouring Gypsum concrete over pex since 1991. If he has some concern have him call me. 716-913-4166. If the gyp applicator is afraid of the job maybe you should be afraid of his skill. I'll give you names of other applicators in your area if you need them. I'm amazed at the misinformation that still is out there in this day. This size job deserves a professional.

Unknown

not true.

zone it separately, and a shallow setback is quite adequate. Generally people are too cold in the bathroom, not the bedroom.

intelligent control can speed up recovery from setback anyway if it truly necessary for some reason.

tim smith

Rob, regarding not true

I was not talking about being too cool really, it is they want to sleep in quite cool room at night and therefore they then do wake up cold because they turned it down to where they like to sleep. Or as you stated, shallow set back and then it is too warm for them to sleep. Quite a few clients have found this out.

Gary Hydock

GYP or Staple up ?

Mark Eatherton

Gary...

Just curious... Did you know that Mr Holohan makes money for this web site off of PAID advertisers???

I see you keep dropping little not so subtle hints all over the place and am just wondering if you are doing so with his permission, or just taking advantage. I don't remember seeing any banners for your product scrolling across the screen, but I could be mistaken.

Personally, it turns me off.

ME

Unknown

I understand what you are saying. I almost never run into this with bedrooms that are zoned on their own that don't even have setback capabilities. It is possible to find a temp that is comfortable for both sleeping and mild activity in the bedrooms without trying too hard, IF they are zoned separately. The problem most often is that the temperature is generally too cool for an adjacent bathroom or primary living space and it is often too far apart to make balancing an option.

However, again, if setback is really important, indoor feedback makes it possible. If the system can turn up its temperature to react faster and turn it back down when you're done, you can make the system do just about anything you want it to, and it can figure out how to make it happen.

I suggest, however, that people pay attention to how they feel and realize deep setback isn't helping them, and that they are, in fact, generally comfortable at a middle temperature in a bedroom. A rare few aren't, but most people are.

Paul Pollets

Well said!!

I concur!

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DanHolohan

He's taking advantage

I wrote to him and suggested he stop doing this, and that he advertise with us if he wanted to let people know about his products, but he ignored my e-mail and just continued being obnoxious.

So now he's gone for good.

troy_9

good Bye

Thank you. No Loss!