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dilema

"Concrete Breaking,Cutting,Sawingand Removal" it pulls a contractors who specialize in doing this. You just have to find one in your area.

I see contractors around Milwaukee who do this for electic proximity applications for concrete road pavement. They install small conduit with wiring for metered ramps, stoplight sequencing etc.


Rich

Comments

  • Mitch_4
    Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
    Here is the scenario

    Did a retro a few years ago, 90+ condensing boiler fixed, Outdoor reset, single loop, baseboard. There was an addition, but was not in the system.

    NOW he wants radiant in the addition. The boiler has the capacity, not very big, and there have been structural improvements turning this 3 season room to a 4. Problem is I am involved after the reno's (figures!)

    I cannot really raise the floor level at all!!, overpour is out, and even warm board or a quicktrac would mess up all the doors etc..

    is there someway to "router" groves in the cement so I can install tubing?

    I told them not likely, and if I do, it will not be the best as there is no isulation under the tube, unsure about the slab as it was existing.

    Leaning to tell them DV gas fireplace, and carpet, or electric radiant.

    Any thoughts?

    Mitch
  • Norm Harvey
    Norm Harvey Member Posts: 684


    Not that this helps at all, But its also a matter of how importaint radiant is to the customer.

    For example: myself,.. when I have the extra cash to install radiant in my own home,.. I will GLADLY shave a half-inch off the bottoms of my doors to have radiant.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • ALH_4
    ALH_4 Member Posts: 1,790
    Options

    Sounds like the floor is out unless they trim the doors. Have you considered radiant walls or ceilings? How about panels radiators?
  • Tony_23
    Tony_23 Member Posts: 1,033
    I would suggest

    Ceilng radiant or panel rads.
  • Yes

    Mitch,

    I saw a post here about a year ago where one of the guys had a machine that cut a grove in the concrete, and it had a device to cut the circle on the end of the line grove, to lay the pipe in a proper loop.

    There were photos showing the machine and the process.

    I do not remember who posted it, or how to search it.

    I suggest that you repost with a topic line more definitive to your need. Many may not be looking a "dilemma" topic.

    I will keep looking for it.

    Good Luck

    Ed Carey
  • Follow up

    See post of "radiant in existing slab"

    Getting closer

    Ed Carey
  • Found it

    I think this is it.

    However, I could not get the photos to open. May they are too old.

    Ed Carey


    http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&&Message_ID=187108&_#Message187108
  • Mitch_4
    Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
    Thanks

    He would really like the room with floor radiant. slab on grade, (read d**n cold), would prefer to avoid rads and BB, although I told him he may be stuck.

    Trimming the door sgenerally is not bad, but there is a double wide (16') patio door right on the slab, and I for one do not feel like rebuilding the header, because code here does not allow you to notch structural framing.

    Thanks Ed for the link. Talking to a concrete guy to see if he has ideas (like a concrete dado blade)...

    Mitch
  • jp_2
    jp_2 Member Posts: 1,935
    3/8's pex

    what about using 3/8's pex then a thin gypcrete over pour?
    or 3/4" sleepers then pack deck mud in between?

    the slider might have enough room between the top of the door and the header?
  • Mitch_4
    Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
    Thank everyone

    appreciate the help.

    M
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