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Viega Fostapex for panel rads, anyone?

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User] Posts: 0
in THE MAIN WALL
Dianorm makes a really sweet rough in mount for tube that I believe can be used vertically or horizontally, for the next time...

ME

Comments

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,405
    Fitting choices?

    I'm wondering how to attach the tube useing the panel rad fittings. Seems the FostaPex stripper tool doesn't strip deep enough to get the nut and ferrule on the tube.

    Is there another fitting or do I need to extend the "cut" of my stripper tool? thanks

    hot rod
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • lee_7
    lee_7 Member Posts: 457


    Hot rod,

    The stripper is adjustable in depth. There is a set screw to set depth. Test on scrap piece for proper fit. We had this problem at Viega's training center in N.H. a few weeks ago in their training room.
  • st heat
    st heat Member Posts: 28
    i love panel rads!!

    can you use chrome plated bullets to go through floor.
    respectively st heat
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,405
    deeper as in

    further down the tube. I used a tubing cutter to cut a new groove, but it's hard to peel the aluminum layer off.

    hot rod
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Use copper...

    and make your transition below the floor if you can.

    Vacuum cleaners and PAP don't get along real well...

    It happens.

    ME
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,405
    These are very close to the floor

    due to low window sills. I used wall stub outs for most, what a hassle to connect. Trying to keep those copper stubs out straight after the carpenter put wide base over them was a drag.

    The floor stub ups were easier to connect and fit, as not all the rad connections were perfectly straight with the angle valve attached.

    I'll do it a bit differently next time.

    hot rod
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • st heat
    st heat Member Posts: 28
    radiator

    i try to use 38 " as much as possible.
  • Steve Ebels_3
    Steve Ebels_3 Member Posts: 1,291
    Ahhhhh yes

    The ever present conundrum of how to connect.

    We use F-Pex for all our radiator installs Hot Rod. What we have settled on though is to use a copper stub out, either wall or floor, and make the transition back in the wall. The drywall people really mess up the F-Pex.

    To answer your question, You can adjust the knife in the F-P stripper to give you a deeper "peel". That will allow you to slide the nut and ferrule on far enough to attach.
  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,883
    I'll third that ...

    or is it second that ?

    We use copper stub outs and make the transition right below the floor. We had some problems with the fosta-pex making a neat and tight connection and just switched to the copper stub outs with the press adapters. Nice neat job.

    Scott

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  • lee_7
    lee_7 Member Posts: 457


    yes, it will adjust insertion depth.
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,663
    We use

    the cone nuts for PEX connections, available from Dianorm. They're 1/2"F for radiator connection x 1/2"PEX with compression cone. We often use Fostapex S&R's directly into the radiator. We obtain the dual escutcheon and 8" split PVC cover tubes from Chris Rorke at Blueline Supply.

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  • mtfallsmikey
    mtfallsmikey Member Posts: 765
    How?

    Do you guys approach this if there is a crawl space underneath? Enough room to work the crimpers if you do a copper/other stub-out under the floor?
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,405
    Paul ?

    how do you fit the dual escutcheons over the FostaPex. I have those also but the FostaPex od will not allow them to go around.

    A careful UniBit adjustment :)

    hot rodi
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Steve Ebels_3
    Steve Ebels_3 Member Posts: 1,291
    Generally

    If there's room for me in the crawlspace, there's room to work the crimper.:)

    Where it does get a little dicey is when the connection has to be made up in the joist space above the basement wall. Not often but it does happen. In those instances we'll crimp it together and then fish the whole works through to the rad location.

    Like I say to the boy's "Adapt, Improvise, Overcome"!

    They get sick of that ;)
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,663
    the escutcheons...

    we use have a 3 step tapered opening. it can cover 3/8, 1/2" or 5/8 piping. The ends are trimmed with a razor knife to the pex (or copper) size used. These use to be packaged with all Buderus WPRads. Now I buy them from Chris. They should came with Dianorm, at least they show in their catalogue. Have Chris send you a sample with the cover tubes. BTW, wall panel rads rough in much easier from the floor. Unfortunately, many owners want wall rough-ins.

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  • mtfallsmikey
    mtfallsmikey Member Posts: 765
    Not being

    Familiar with all of these newfangled piping materials like Fostapex led me to ask that last question. Mark sez vacuum cleaners and PAP don't mix...why? Also, do you just run a F-pex stub thru the floor instead of copper, and join it under the floor? Wish all PEX was around 35 yrs. ago. Using rolls of L copper in a HW retro of an old house sure wasn't much fun!
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