Buderus/Riello help

Weezbo

or do you have a Tjereland SSII?

BF burner or F-5 ?

if you have a tiger-loop combo...i would say that there might be some chance the supply and return are bassakwards , maybe?

do you have a single pipe system? if so you Do not want the by- pass ....

have you an oil source that you Know is "available"?

note while i could ask you ?'s that indicate more to me in other ways let me ask did you trick the fire eye to start the burn cycle? perhaps you inadvertently left the casing unscrewed and you are drawing too much air to sustain combustion and completely changing the pattern of atomized oil...

to me it sounds like you do not have oil in the tank . or the supply and return on the Tigerloop is backwards...

Norm Harvey

I'm having problems with a newly installed Buderus g115/21 with a Riello burner.

The burner ignites and immediately drops out and continues trial for ignition.

The following are parts that I have tested, found within tolerance, and replaced anyways one at a time for a test.

Cad cell eye,
Primary control,
Coil,
pump valve stem,
Electrodes.

Ive also replaced the nozzle with identical.

I've ensured the sub base is wired properly.

Air gate, pump pressure, and turbulator setting are app set to the Buderus sticker affixed to the burner.



Any ideas?

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Norm Harvey

F3 burner

Single pipe system, no tiger loop, gravity fed. By pass plug is still in the plastic bag. Theres plenty of oil in the tank and the pump primes fine.

After every few attempts I open the door to the combustion chamber and wipe out the excess oil with a rag.

Im positive the nozzle is spraying oil after the flame drops out.




I had another tech suggest that Buderus specs have the blast tube insertion depth too deep, and pulling the entire tube back solves the problem. Im going to try that when I go back today.

Any thoughts on that theory?



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Robert O'Brien

Norm

are you using the .60 or .75 firing rate? I've had better luck with the .75,is the coil bracket there and tight?Sub-base tabs making contact with control? I wouldn't change the insertion depth,it's correct as is. I had one years ago where the voltage output from motor was low and it %^%#ed up everything,check that. After that, 1-800-BUDERUS.Their tech support is very good.

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Saggs

I've had several riellos out of the box that have the airband set where it calls for but just cycle off and on and wont stay running. Finally I found the units had too much air, simply closing down the air shutter took care of that. Close it down a full number to get it running and keep it running then get out your test kit and fine tune it from there. Good luck

Rocky_3

Riello recycle issues

Raise the fuel pressure about 10 psi and I think you will find out the issue goes away. This directly from Buderus tech support. Worked for me.

Regards,
Rocky

Weezbo

Gravity fed...........

well, rather than keep trying to guess at what parts and pieces you have in what configuration....do you have a jpeg of the lash up?

here are a few considerations to ponder in the interim ,


are your connections from the pump to the "Gun" tight? a pinner oil leak at the pressure side of the pump, oil can drift down the tube into the air stream ....

Just read Rocky's post... that may be also,.... depends on the variables once again....you use different nozzles then you need to match the pump pressure...for the firing rate (out put) ...more often than not i look to my riello books for exact information rather than the manufacturers of the boilers...and start from Riellos specs as the beginning settings.

that would produce similar results...

i would not even consider the wrong settings however, each boiler has variables as to just which draw tube and how much insertion depth is required for that boiler, yet, if you read the directions which i don't have in my hands at the moment ..i believe you will have a picture and it will show a specific depth of insertion. that is not measured disregarding the other components within a boiler... just off the top of my head i will say it is like a heavy 2 and 3/8ths" *~/:)

you could check the shutter if it is giving you the problem...some boilers come pre wired and the connector plugs into the lead from the burner to the control so that when you open the door it will disconnect it electrically ...if you re wired it, the next thought would go out in that direction...

you can run a boiler without the burners pre purge (electronic shutter) drop that out of the list of variables...open the electronic shutter, then reset the burner...if there is something wrong with the shutter (spinning around and around) you eliminate that from the equation.

captbuderus_2

Riello/Buderus

One of my fav. combo's ! This should have 6" insertion on the tube, if memory serves me it's a 0 turb set, 145 pump psi and the nozzle is a .50 80 b. I'm not sure of the air setting of the top of my head. It sound like a loss of retention, what is the draft on this unit? They DO NOT like a lot of draft. Try closing the air shutter a bit and see if the problem goes away. Make sure to follow up with a proper comb. set up.

Rocky_3

OOPS!

Raising Riello pressure by 10 psi did NOT come from
Buderus tech line, it came directly from RIELLO tech line. My mistake. It will address the issue at hand.

Regards,
Rocky

Chris. Rorke

Reillo / 21

THE only nozzle that I have had sucess with in this application is the Danfoss .5 80 x AH. Pump pressure from the factory has always been spot on. From size 28 and up we switch to 60 degree AB or AS. Some of the bigger 215's run better with 45 degree nozzles. Hope this helps. We have sold thousands over twenty plus years if that adds to your comfort level.

Joe@buderus_2

Riello Issue

Because of the parts that have been changed, it kind of rules out a "defective" part. Nozzle change to previous postings is a good idea, DRAFT - very important make sure no greater than negative .03 at breech of boiler. If draft ok - Quick test - place hand over air intake blocking SLIGHTLY - if unit lights, but when running is not a "clean" fire - spread the electrodes out to a sloppy 3/16" of an inch - Riello manual states 4mm. Slight increase in pump pressure is ok as well. Please call us from the site if possible, if the above doesn't help.

psd_3

Trial for ignition issues

From my own experiences with similar issues -

+ Improved with increased pump pressure (160psi instead of spec'd 145psi). Smaller fuel droplets provide smoother ignition.

+ Improved with higher CO2 setting (12.5ppm), worsened with lower CO2 setting (<11.5ppm) ... less air helps to maintain good spark during ignition ... helps to reduce delayed ignition also.

+ Improved with wider electrode gap than spec'd 5/32's. Helps to reduce delayed ignition also.

+ Improved with inside air, worsened with cold outside air. May need to temper cold outside air with some inside air if sufficient inside air is not adequete to support combustion.

Using a combination of these has completely solved my issues
with Riello/Buderus configuration.

Absolutely need to assure good combustion parameters when all said and done with such adjustments!

burnerman_2

not a big fan

each person has thier favorite burner or boilwer and after they are trained on it they feel more comftable with that brand but i have worked on a few the one that had a new Buderus with a reillo they forgot to replace the oil filter no mater how good the unit is if u do not get a staedy supply of fuel it will not run right so check the fuel flow and if u bled it it may seem ok do a vacum test well change the filter shoot if it's dirty u will. know my thoughts on the subject royboy

Jim_83

Norm, What was the solution to this problem?

Norm Harvey

Pulling the blast tube out about a half inch did wonders for the stability. I did that first and it completely solved the problem. I then upped the pump pressure just for good measure.

I was surprised that the insertion depth made that much of a difference.