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1 Pipe Steam system - need to buy all new valves in correct size

Jody
Jody Member Posts: 10
Thanks. It looks like the #2 valves are rather large, so I'm going to need some pipework done to make room for them. As I described them above, does it sound like they are in an appropriate place?

As for the shutoff valve, since they only cost $15 or so, I was thinking it would be easiest to just change it, which I figured I could do myself. maybe this will be harder than I am thinking?

Comments

  • Jody
    Jody Member Posts: 10
    Need help with valve sizing

    Hi, I recently bought an older home with steam heat. I have read a lot of the threads here and ordered one of Dan's books. From what I have learned, I think I need to totally change out the rad and line valves. It looks like they have just been thrown together over the years with no planning, and the rad valves range from original equipment (1932) to Hoffman Specialty #40 valves I installed a few weeks ago. Here are the specs of my system:
    1 Pipe System.

    2 loops branching off of main steam riser:

    Loop #1 - Only 2 rads, one large and one med, both in master bed. (Also has a split that goes to a huge garage rad, but I have that shut off for now -

    55' of 2.5", 9' of 2" to line valve.

    Loop #2 - Rads: 1 lg (dng rm), 3 med (2 lvg rm, 1 office), 1 small (bath rm) -

    47.5' of 2.5", 14.5' 2" to line valve

    Both line valves split off vertical 2" lines about 6" below a 90* bend that sends the lines down to the wet returns. They split off horizontally, but then have a 90* bend to go back to a 5" vertical riser up to the valves. This seems strange, as most schematics I have seen have the valves splitting off of a horizontal line in front of a bend.

    I am thinking about buying gorton valves for the rads and the lines, my only question is which sizes. There are 3 other factors to consider:

    1) I just bought 3 Hoffman Specialy #40 rad valves - can i use them somewhere, or am I better of going to all gortons?
    2) There is only about 5" of space b/w the top of the risers for the line valves and the ceiling. If the gorton line valves are any bigger, I would need to hire a plummer to move them lower.
    3) should I make some of the rad valves adjustable?

    Also, I need to replace one of the rad supply valves - it is hissing/spitting whether open or closed. It looks like an original valve, so I'm thinking I should replace it rather than try to repack it. Any brand suggestion? It has a 90* bend and I think there is a 1.5" connection to the rad.

    Thanks in advance for the help - I hope I have posted enough detail.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Each of your steam mains

    should have a Gorton #2 vent. This is the biggest vent made today, and is well worth its cost.

    This will get the steam to the ends of the mains quickly. Once the #2 vents are in place, see how well the radiators heat, and make adjustments to radiator venting rates as needed.

    The shutoff valve may just need to be tightened or repacked, or may need replacement. This is best handled by a pro, as it can be rather difficult.

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,393
    If height is an issue

    this is what I did:

    Install Gorton #1's in a 3:1 ratio rather than single Gorton #2's

    Gorton #1's vent about 1/3 the rate of what a #2 will and are about half the height. The cost is also about 1/3 from what I have found. Just more piping to get them in.

    See the attached sketch.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • Jody
    Jody Member Posts: 10


    Hmm, that might be possible. The thing that worries me is that my line valves actually split off about 4" BELOW the drop to return and then have a 6" riser that takes them a few inches above the main line. It doesn't seem correct to me. However, my main lines run only a couple of inches below the ceiling, so I may not have a choice... I would love to hear if this is workable or not.
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,393
    Can you go up

    into the joist space? That is what I did. I had to use a union in the rise to make that happen. (No room to "spin the antlers" you see). Went in quite easily.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • Jody
    Jody Member Posts: 10


    Hmm, I'm not sure where the joists are. I would imagine I could knock out some of the ceiling and get up there somehow. I guess my big question is if where my line vents branch off from the line (ie 4" below the turn on the way down to the wet return) is workable. I'm sure it's not ideal, but if it is a really bad thing, this would be the time to fix it. If it isn't the end of the world, then maybe i'll just go up into the joist space.

    Thanks for all the help. Have you ever replaced a rad supply valve?
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