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Main vents

Brad White
Member Posts: 2,399
from a slug of steam-propelled water crashing up inside the vent and making scrap metal of it's delicate insides...
If you keep that in mind, (as I think you are) you can do the right thing.
I have seen it recommended to put an elbow or two between the vent and the main, (maybe a switch-back with it's own dead-end tee, thinking out loud?) and slow down the wave at least.
But with that approach, there are no guarantees. You really do want a wave, if it occurs, to pass harmlessly by, below your vent tapping. One whack at over 3 PSI is all it takes. Even lower pressures can generate some force above that with velocity and a good slug of water.
If you keep that in mind, (as I think you are) you can do the right thing.
I have seen it recommended to put an elbow or two between the vent and the main, (maybe a switch-back with it's own dead-end tee, thinking out loud?) and slow down the wave at least.
But with that approach, there are no guarantees. You really do want a wave, if it occurs, to pass harmlessly by, below your vent tapping. One whack at over 3 PSI is all it takes. Even lower pressures can generate some force above that with velocity and a good slug of water.
"If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"
-Ernie White, my Dad
-Ernie White, my Dad
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Main Vents
I just looked at a job where the main vents are installed at the end of the steam main in a tee with a 4" nipple. Dan says it shouldn't be there. He suggests cutting a tee in the main 15" from the end of the main. Is there a way I can move the vent without cutting the main pipe using elbows and nipples? Has anyone tried this with success?
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You could
drill and tap a hole in the side of the last radiator runout tee, and elbow up to your main vent. We do this all the time, and have never had a problem.
But we also see lots of vents installed like yours is, and they work fine as long as the pressure doesn't get too high.
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