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Replacing a pipe
Daniel_3
Member Posts: 543
Being that you have a counter flow system the run-out only has to be 1/2" per ten feet, it's the main that has to be at least 1" per ten feet though 1" is great if you get it.
I am always wary of the size of radiator angle valves. If you see some varieties made today they often don't employ a true ball valve body and they restrict steam flow much greater than an older ball type like you have in the picture. If 28 edr I say keep the 1 1/4" pipe and valve size especially if pitch is not at least at the min. With a little torque on that riser and a shorter nipple, you'll be good to go!
See my fix for those horrid cast iron baseboards that they try to use for steam. I have a couple and I don't like em too much.
I am always wary of the size of radiator angle valves. If you see some varieties made today they often don't employ a true ball valve body and they restrict steam flow much greater than an older ball type like you have in the picture. If 28 edr I say keep the 1 1/4" pipe and valve size especially if pitch is not at least at the min. With a little torque on that riser and a shorter nipple, you'll be good to go!
See my fix for those horrid cast iron baseboards that they try to use for steam. I have a couple and I don't like em too much.
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Comments
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Replacing a pipe
I have a single pipe steam system with one of the runouts to a radiator sloped the wrong way. I've cut out the riser to the first floor radiator it feeds.
I'm getting ready to put it back together and thought I'd pick up any pointers I could. I attached pictures of the riser that I cut out and the end of the pipe. I sawzall'd through the elbow and then made a couple cuts into the remaining piece and then broke them off. I intend to essentially replace the riser (elbow, pipe, valve) with a shorter length pipe to improve the pitch.
I have a couple concerns:
1. One of the relief cuts went too deep. How much can pipe dope make up for?
2. What kind of pipe dope should I use?
3. How tight do you screw them together?
4. I will get the pipe cut and threaded at a supply place in town. How do I estimate the length of pipe?
Thanks-ER0 -
In the pipe-end pic . .did you place that block between the two pipes? If so then make sure the pitch is approximately 1 inch per 10ft. If the block must be removed, so be it. Place some pipe insulation on all those risers while your there.
Make sure the pitch of that horizontal riser is correct first before you measure for the vertical supply to the rad.
I generally measure from the face of the shoulder of that elbow and stop my measurement at about 1/4" into the shoulder of the angle valve.
Place a couple rounds of teflon tape on that wounded pipe, back it up with a generous amount of blu-block by hercules, and then tighten it up nicely. Don't over tighten it and don't back off the tightening of it.
With single pipe steam pressure you should be fine unless the wound to the threads is too deep.0 -
Another tip
If you cannot correct the "improper pitch", you may also consider making the base low point elbow a drip elbow (essentially a tee at "size-in x size-out to riser and a 1-inch down to a drip leg. This 1" drip would be carried back to the boiler as a dry but preferably wet return if that works logistically. There is a little more to it than that, when dropping around an obstruction but that is basically what to do. Others may have other ideas of course.
Unless you correct that pitch it will be bang-city, which you know. Drop it, dry it."If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"
-Ernie White, my Dad0 -
blocks
The blocks that are in the picture are just there to brace it while I broke off the elbow cuff. I will get all the pitch I can out of that pipe. I don't think it quite got to 1 in 10 though. I think the pipe is oversized for the rad though so that give a little lee-way.
Thanks for the measuring guidance.
teflon and hercules. really, i wouldn't have guessed that.
Eric0 -
How are you going to get the joint where bad pitch run out joins the main to go the right way i.e. up at 1 inch per 10 feet? Is there a swing joint there or what? Can we see a pic of that point? You may also need a swing joint where you turn up to the rad so the pitch will be maintained.0 -
more pipe info
I attached a schematic and an actual picture.
My plan is to just torque the pipe to get the pitch. On the main is a T rotated 45 degrees from vertical. This feeds a 45 elbow and then the 6 foot pipe. This pipe rests just beyond flat in the wrong direction. With moderate pressure I can tilt it up to 1 in 8 pitch in the right direction.
Its a 1 1/4" pipe and LAOSH calls for a 1" pipe for this counterflow application.
Insulation is on the way as well.
There are several pipes visible in the picture. Some are for the second boiler. Its a 2 family house with 2 boilers. This back area has a lot of pipes running around. Getting a swing joint in would really cause headaches. Actually, it would probably cause a rebuild of the back end, which is a grand I'm obviously trying to avoid.
Eric0 -
Cast Iron Fittings
Are a snap if you know what I am getting to. They break very easily which can be done with a hammer and another as a backup. Then you replace the fittings onto clean undamaged threads.
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how big and how hard?
sounds too easy.0 -
how big and how hard?
Two three pounders will do it but better smack pretty hard, Two sixteen pounders will do it just not as hard.0
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