notch studs OK?

Weezbo

3' of HWBB could be fed with even smaller pex a tubing.

why not keep the tubing within the building envelope?

to me it is a simple idea. let the tubing live in the rock.

there are quite a few plates made this day. a partial wall heat run to the HWBB unit with small pex tubing in a plate ...sheet rock up to ,mud and tape over ,it is about as clean as it gets.

tm

Is it acceptable to notch studs of a non-load bearing wall to feed a hwbb unit? I assume foam insulation would be important. I would only need to do this to 2 studs, so only about 3' of copper would be concealed.
Thanks

Rich L.

notch

Absolutly, just don't cut over half of the stud out and be sure to protect the pipes before they're covered with drywall. I assume this is an inside wall seeing as it's non load bearing. I wouldn't bury pipes in an outside wall in my area (-10 degrees design temp) due to fears of freezing.

Good luick, Rich L

ALH_4

Pex?

You might use pex if there is even a remote possibility of freezing as it will tolerate freezing much better than copper. Why not drill 1" holes in the studs for 1/2" pex and use Sioux Chief suspension clamps or similar to isolate?

This is a non-load-bearing exterior wall?

hot_rod

Simpson has a unique stud

device that adds some strength and provides a nail guard www.strongtie.com

The also have a "Code Compliant Repair and Protection Guide"

It might be a nice product for notched stud work to protect the integerity of the stud, bearing or not.

hot rod

ALH_4

Simpson

Hot Rod, Do you have a direct link or the name of the product? I'm wandering around the Simpson website and not finding it. I'm probably looking right at it.

tm

Thanks for the advice so far. I think I really need to stay with 3/4 copper because it is part of my larger loop which would have as much as 30' of element. I would be notching an outside wall but it is not the load bearing - rather an attic end wall (not bearing the rafters). I have a new thought - what about notching so that no sheet rock covers the pipes? In other words only the wooden baesboard would cover the pipes. I could get about 2 1/2" of fiberglass between the copper and the outside wall. Would this keep the copper from freezing?
PS - The element is not 3' - the concealed pipe length is 3'.

hot_rod

Here's the link

for the free Code Compliant Book
http://www.strongtie.com/literature/F-REPRPROTECT.html.

I don't see the stud bracket either at the website. Sometimes new products hit the press before the website

They get back to you almost instantly if you send a question at their website.

hot rod

Bob Bona_4

notching to

the edge will make it difficult, if not impossible, to get fittings sweated to turn into the baseboard run. It's hard to articulate-you will need to use two 90's to end up at the fin tube run from the wall. If the rough pipe is right at the edge of the drywall, at best you'll scorch the insulation/drywall at trim. Worse is you'll most likely disturb the sweated joint behind the drywall when you sweat the final 90 on to the fin tube. 20 years of bb install has taught me that:)

If you want to notch studs on the way to the bb, and then submerge halfway into the last stud by your bb, that would be better. Make sure you insulate the pipes well. Be sure to use BOCA nail plates for no tears later.