Radiant options for new Kitchen

Shane_2

on a kitchen addition bid I'm working on. Kitchen is about 20X20 over a basement. Customer would like radiant for this area. 1600 sq. foot house. Exsisting cast iron boiler has more than enough btu left to heat new area. I would like to make the customer happy but still keep the cost down. To add a radiant zone to the excisting system(one pump, 3 zone valves); I plan to install a Taco RMB-1 to control the radiant and protect the boiler.

I was wondering what some of you guys would/have done in a similar situation.

Thank You
Shane F.

kevin coppinger_4

don't cheap out...

and not use plates if installing underneath...If you are looking to cut costs just use a 3 way mixing valve...the Taco rmb is a very nice pice of eqipment but is pricey...there are other ways to protect the boiler. What is the output of the zone? kpc

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Aidan (UK)

Why RMB ??

Seems to me, if your trying to keep the costs down, the RMB is not the product to use for such a small area. It is basically an injection system (2 pumps) with a tekmar 356 control all built into a small compact package - pricey. Not a cost effective choice in my mind for such a small project.

Assuming this is a tile installation, I would suggest a simple 2 loop arrangement with a circ, tempering valve, and a thermostat with a floor sensor. The whole thing should cost you well under $1000 in materials. You would need to have a heatloss calculation to determine the exact setting for the tempering valve.

I'm suggesting the floor sensor because typically in the kitchen, there can be substantial heat gains from appliances, lighting, people, and cooking which can prevent the thermostat from turning the heat on. This can allow the floor to be cool. A probe in the floor can insure the floor is kept to a minimum temperature so that the floor won't feel cold, and response times for heating will be improved.

People don't expect cold floors in a radiant heat system. The kitchen is one room where this is likely to happen, especially if over an un-conditioned space. See the attachment for piping / wiring.

Hope this helps you.

Shane_2

Thank you for the Reply

The heat loss for the new room is 9066. I planned on 10" tube spacing which will give me two loops about 230 feet each. I will staple down on sub-floor with gypcrete and tile over, foil-faced R-19 under sub-floor. I thought about the mixing valve, but I would be concerned if the kitchen was the only zone calling for heat.

Thank You,

Shane F.

Shane_2

Thanks for the info, this might be a great way to go. And thank you for the diagram.

Aidan (UK)

protecting boiler

I got the impression the kitchen was a small part of the entire home. It's not likely you will have a sustained requirement in the kitchen and not in other areas of the house that would create sustained low return temperatures.

As a whole, when the heating system is working, what percentage is the kitchen. If its reasonably small, I wouldn't be concerned about the boiler. You could always put a thermometer on the return and see what the temp is.

If you think there may be a problem, consider using a thermic valve on the return. See the attachment.

Ron Schroeder

Will the radiant floor be the only heat source for the kitchen? I have done several kitchens and bathrooms with radiant floor on a floor sensor and baseboard on a wall thermostat.

Shane_2

Radiant will be only heat source for kitchen, no wall space for baseboard. gave option for kickspace heater, Customer would like warm tile. I still haven't decided between Taco's RMB-1 or mixing valve, but therm. with floor sensor was a great idea. I have 3-4 week to decide.

Jed_2

Simple Solution

Ultra Fin! 200' of 1/2" Kitec, 200 (each, 100 pairs) 10" Ultra Fins @ Approximately 30-36" O/C through the joists below, insulated. Set up with ZV/T'stat for it's own zone. Case closed, happy Customers. KISS!

Jed