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Venting requirements & DIY a drop header?

Jim Franklin
Member Posts: 170
This chilly morning prompted me to get off my butt and thinking about the heating season. My slow-heating steam system has 14' of 2 inch pipe, then splits into a loop of 8' @ 2 inch plus 34' @ 1.5 inch, and a second loop of 50' @ 1.5 inch. Last year at the end of each I put a Gorton number 1. Do I need more? (the mains are slow to heat, not just the rads)
Also I attached pics of the near boiler piping. How bad is it that the 2nd riser tees into the first? If it needs to be redesigned, how physically hard is it to DIY a drop header? If I hire it out, what's an approx cost for it? I'm in Acton, MA.
thanks!
jim
Also I attached pics of the near boiler piping. How bad is it that the 2nd riser tees into the first? If it needs to be redesigned, how physically hard is it to DIY a drop header? If I hire it out, what's an approx cost for it? I'm in Acton, MA.
thanks!
jim
0
Comments
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Hack job
That whole boiler needs to be re-piped.
Can`t see the equalizer or the return from your pics but judging from what I can see it can`t be much better than the rest of the system.0 -
:-)
I nearly spewed my breakfast all over the screen with that subject line. I knew it was sub-optimal, but...
Here are pics of the returns and the loop.
jim0 -
well
If nothing else it look's like they at least set it up to be skimmed.I will also give them credit for using black iron. The best way to redo this would be to go by the book from the manufacturer. They give very specific information as to how they want their system piped (close boiler).
You do have a number of issue's with the boiler piping and resolving them will definately help your heating issues. As far as doing it yourself, if you have a power threader, some black iron and the time, it could be done. Depend's on how much time you have and the equipment and know how to get it done....
Also, make sure to never check on something you posted while eating. It has been known to cause a number of computer issue's such as flooding and screen damage due to food projectile's...Please be careful!!! LOL0 -
Not good.
It's slow to heat because the steam can't get out of the boiler.
Is that 3/4" piping to the indirect water heater coil?
Get rid of that while you're at it.
Increasing it to 1" will help immensely.
Was this a DIY?
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Classes0 -
Not DIY, the boiler cracked as the house changed hands and while Dunkirk honored the warranty (boiler was only 4 years old!) I had to pay labor. While the "oil guy" was replacing the boiler he added the SuperStor, complete with a pumping away setup from a high tapping, so it gets steam bound often since he didn't include a 180 aquastat...so yea, lots to do in there.
There's a 007 F5 on there now, and 20' head loss in the piping & indirect's coil. SS recommends 8gpm flow rate. Since there are 3/4 flanges on that, I'm guessing I'll need a larger circ?
thanks...
jim0 -
Just like I thought
A do-over.
Hartford loop looks to be above the water line as well as many other issues.
Where do you live?
Maybe you can find a steam expert in your neck of the woods.0 -
Not surprised.
I am surprised it has not cracked again, the way the header coming off the boiler is piped. When it expands it can push the sections apart and cause them to crack.0 -
surprised that
Surprised that Dunkirk would replace a improperly piped boiler. You are better off to get a REAL boiler pro to do the correct near boiler pipings and take care system overall...0 -
The loop is at the same height as the skim tapping, i.e. about 4" too high. And there's a 6" nipple instead of a close....
I'm in Acton, MA. I'll try my luck with FAP tomorrow.
thanks,
jim0 -
Replying to myself to see if I can get any venting numbers now that folks are back at work. A pointer to a calculation table would be great too and I can do the math :-)
jim0
This discussion has been closed.
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