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Boiler Replacement
Steamhead (in transit)
Member Posts: 6,688
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Not sure what the heat load of the family room is, but a true professional will do a heat-loss calculation on the entire house, including that room. Not only will this determine the proper boiler size, but you'll also know how much heat you need to put into the family room. Then the existing piping and radiation can be compared to this, and modified if needed.
My gut tells me you'd need to increase the pipe size to the family room, and rewire the controls so that zone can call the burner as well. But this would have to be verified- that's what a pro is for.
If you're in the Baltimore area, contact us!
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=367&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
Not sure what the heat load of the family room is, but a true professional will do a heat-loss calculation on the entire house, including that room. Not only will this determine the proper boiler size, but you'll also know how much heat you need to put into the family room. Then the existing piping and radiation can be compared to this, and modified if needed.
My gut tells me you'd need to increase the pipe size to the family room, and rewire the controls so that zone can call the burner as well. But this would have to be verified- that's what a pro is for.
If you're in the Baltimore area, contact us!
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=367&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
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Comments
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Boiler Replacment
Getting ready to start the process of replacing my boiler. Existing boiler is an old Crane Sunnyday. The issue that is bothering me is, the original house (1 1/2 story) is all cast iron rads. The "addition" (1 story, w/crawl space), approximately 500 sf, was built in the 60's. It is heated from the boiler with 1/2" dia copper and 2" fin tube baseboard. This system is on it's own thermostat and pump. This thermostat just operates the on/off of the pump, while the "rest of the house" thermostat operates both the pump for the rest of the house and the firing of the boiler. Also, the run from the boiler to the first fin tube is at least 50'. The problem arises when the original part of the house is satisfied for heat, the "addition" is stll cold. I have used space heaters to offset the temperature difference. I want to be comfortable since this is the family room and we spend most of our time in there. The one answer I got locally was to just switch the thermostats, but I have a hard time firing a boiler for an extended time for just 500 sf. Maybe I just need a lot of convincing. Thats why I'm here, to ask you. I have even considered the Combi2 from BW (since the bath & kitchen is far from the current water heater) but since I'm replacing the boiler, it may be more cost effective to put my money there. What are my options?0 -
Boiler replacement
First, I would replace it with a Mod/con boiler. Maybe a Triangle tube prestige. I would also do a heat loss and see how much radiator you need in that room. I would also look into cast iron baseboard radiators for the addition to replace fin tube with. You may also want to put in 3/4 pipe from boiler to addition. This all put together would make a nice system. Good luck.0 -
without looking at your system
I would see if the addition can be made a seperate zone. Run the piping back to the boiler, seperate thermostat so that you are not a slave to the rest of the house or vice versa.
Look at the Find a pro here.0 -
Thanks for the suggestions. FYI, I'm in northwest (central) MO. Also what is a Mod/Con boiler? Is it a condensing boiler?0 -
Mod / Con is
short for Modulating / Condensing boiler. A high efficiency condensing boiler that has a modulating input so it can match the heat load more precisely.0
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