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water filters

Bob_36 Member Posts: 83
I want to install a whole-house water filter in my house that will address sediment problems as well as filter out chlorine. I have seen very inexpensive ones as well as very expensive ones. I'm sure their is a big difference in the two. My questions are what is the difference in the two, do I need the more expensive ones, and how do I size the filter needed. Thanks for any info.


  • Al Letellier_9
    Al Letellier_9 Member Posts: 929

    Cheap never solved an issue....the problems you have with your water will be there forever, so bite the bullet and get the best equipment you can afford. It will be worth it in the long run. AS to sizing, IT DEPENDS. Almost if not all suppliers of this equipment have testing and sizing services to help you determine the proper equipment to buy and install. Take advantage and use it. IF you are not a pro at piping and installing this kind of equipment, hire one. It too will be worth it in the long run.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    It may take several

    pieces of equipment to handle those issues.

    Really, the only way to know is have your water tested. Not a simple softner hardness test but an in-depth anaylsis.

    Only then will you be able to select the proper treatment method and product.

    Consider an independent lab or university. Some times the water softener sales people have one system fits all mindset:)

    Ask around for a qualified water treatment expert. Don't make an expensive or inexpensive mistake.

    hot rod

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  • jackchips_2
    jackchips_2 Member Posts: 1,338
    I agree

    with Hot Rod-independent testing.

    Also, be sure to install a by-pass using three ball valves, even if the filter system comes with an internal one. Money well spent.

  • both Al and Hot Rod

    Both Al and Hot Rod have made good points. I install water treatment according to what's in the water. If its well water, its a different ballgame than with city water. I know some companies will sell overly priced equipment using the scare tactics with natural occuring raduim in water where regular water softner will remove it to safe level.
  • Bill W@Honeywell
    Bill W@Honeywell Member Posts: 164
    Well water grit filters...

    Well water usually contains grit and other sediment. It will cause problems with faucets and shower valves, blasts the finish off fixtures and faucets and will build up in water heaters & tanks. We offer a range of grit filters, but they are different. They DO NOT have a replaceable filter. They automatically backwash themselves, and flush accumulated grit down a drain. Screens are available from 20-200 microns. They have no effect on odors, taste or chemicals. Part numbers are F74, F76, FF06. The MV876 auto backwash control, works with the F76S and F74C models. Pipe sizes from 1/2-2 inch. For more info, go to www.customer.honeywell.com, and pull up tech sheets. They are available from any potable water-oriented Honeywell distributor. Remember, these are filters for grit only, no other contaminants!
  • Mark_7
    Mark_7 Member Posts: 123

    Bob, I agree with the other guys, but if you just want to remve sed and chlorine large whole house filter will do.Get the unit with 1" taps so flow isn't restricted and put valve on both sides for easy replacement of filter. Type of filter to get would be taste and odor which will also collect sediment.
  • Bob_36
    Bob_36 Member Posts: 83

    Thanks for all the input. I live on Long Island and have regular system water, not well water. I am just interested in getting the sediment that you refer to out of the water before it circulates through the house water as well as chlorine for better tasting water. We use bottled water for drinking, so I figured if I installed a filter, I could stop having to lug bottles of water home. In my case do you think it nessesary to go for the expensive unit or is the less expensive unit o.k.? Also, is the difference in the cheaper one that you have to change the filter more often, or is their some other reason ? Looking forward to any reply.
  • Darrell
    Darrell Member Posts: 303

    If you are going to use a canster type filter it will restrict your water flow unless you get a big one. The major difference will be plastic versus brass or stainless housings. The plastic will leak. No doubt, just when will it crack.

    If you are going to use a bedded filter system, do your homework so you're not at the mercy of the seller, and plan for regular maintenance.

    I cheat...I let the dealer spec a system and then I will install it. I do that because it is too difficult to get a happy customer with water treatment equipment. The expectation is too high, and the maintenance is too much. I usually recommend Kinetico around here...the reasons are more perrsonal than professional.

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  • Al_19
    Al_19 Member Posts: 170

    If you're on a municipal water system, you probably don't need whole house backwashing filters or automatic blow-down filters. If you have that kind of sediment problem, then they probably should be treating on a system-wide basis. For some occasional sediment or dirty water, you could probably go with a whole house sediment filter with a replaceable cartridge. You could use a carbon(taste & odor) cartridge here for sediment and clorine, but carbon cartridges usually filter down to a very fine particle(1-5 microns), and so would plug up quicker. Carbon cartridges are also much more expensive

    If you just want to remove clorine from the drinking water, then use a sediment filter at the point-of-entry, and a separate filter(with carbon cartridge) at the point-of-use. This can be done with an undersink filter, or in the basement, and feeds just the cold kitchen faucet, or a separate treated water faucet at the kitchen sink. You could also feed the ice-maker with the declorinated water.

    Your question about "more expensive" vs. "less expensive" is really too vague to answer. Did you have particular makes/models in mind? Do you mean "reverse osmosis" vs. just carbon filter? Or..???
  • Al_19
    Al_19 Member Posts: 170

    Brass or stainless filters are really overkill. Usually only used on hot water. I use plastic filters all the time and have no problem with housings cracking. The housings are only supposed to be hand tightened, and loosened with the correct filter wrench. If you use the wrong wrench(like 18" channel-locks) ,you can flex the housing and crack it. Also, you should have a pressure reducing valve on the incoming water line.

    What's this "cheating" thing? Is that like when you size a boiler with a correct heat loss calc, and then the homeowner gives the info to someone who doesn't, but will put the boiler in for less money? You guys complain about that all the time. When I size my water treatment systems for homeowners, I do the same thing many of the contractors here do. I tell them what type of equipment, but not the details about layout and sizing.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928

    That's what I do as well: Use true "whole-house" sediment filter(s) in the main and charcoal cartridges at point(s) of use. As you said, the charcoal cartridges I'm familiar with cause a significant pressure drop at even moderate flow rates.
  • Bob_36
    Bob_36 Member Posts: 83

    Thanks for all the input of good ideas. I am going to try the plastic filter. For the money, I feel it's worth the trial. If I find it does't work properly, I'll go from there. As I stated earlier, it's not a big problem, just something I figured I could improve on. Thanks again for the help.
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