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almost done...

Timco Member Posts: 3,040
Well, here's the current progress. Feel free to critique, please. Just missing the Peerless' tie-ins and some straps here & there, then the controls. The diverter t's are Trane.

Just a guy running some pipes.


  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    nice piping work

    hard to tell the configuration without a piping diagram. Are the boilers in series? How are the controlled for firing?

    I like to see boilers up on a pad or at least a solid concrete block or two. Easier to work on, clean around, and protection from any water infiltration.

    Also prefer B-vent double wall for the flue connectors. Although single wall may be acceptable under the UMC or whatever is the code djour cut there.

    Why all the 3 piece energy guzzling circs? Useing what was already on the jobsite?

    Lots of pipe and fittings. Good for you keeping it straight, level, and plumb.

    hot rod

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  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040

    The Laars is P/S with a TV for boiler protection on the copper fin unit, with one close t tie in for the secondaries. The Peerless is direct return with a system bypass. I used the 3 pc circs because they were there and it is a diverter T system with pretty long runs. I was worried that 15-58's would not push the divert t loops adequately as they do a 2-pipe layout. The units are on high ground, with the drain sloping away from them. I do my best to keep it all straight. Do you think smaller circs would push the long divert t loops?

    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Tony_23
    Tony_23 Member Posts: 1,033
    That's nice :)

    MUCH better than what you found, before.

    A 15-58 will move as much water as those 100 series' will, easily and with 1/3 the power consumption.

    When your knees and back won't let you bend as far, you'll wish that JV was up a bit :) I use 12" blocks when I can and at least 8" when I can't.
  • Looks great Tim,

    and I agree with the 15-58 suggestion. I never had much luck re-using 3 piece circs, take them out a few days, re-pipe, then put back, and the seal bearing starts leaking soon after.
    BTW-Thanks for ID-ing those tees.

This discussion has been closed.