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zone valves

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DAVE_80
DAVE_80 Member Posts: 1
in THE MAIN WALL
I HAVE A ZONE VALVE WHICH ALLOWS HOT WATER FROM THE BOILER TO FLOW TO THE SECOND FLOOR RADIATORS EVEN WITH THE T'STAT NOT CALLING. WILL CHANGING THE "HEAD" SOLVE THIS PROBLEM OR WILL THE ENTIRE VALVE NEED CHANGING?

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  • kevin coppinger_4
    kevin coppinger_4 Member Posts: 2,124
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    now that's ...

    a first. You can try just the head...maybe it is getting stray voltage and it is partially opening but sounds to me like something is caught under the seat.

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  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
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    If...

    the ZV is a real oldie, or if the system has tons of flux from copper soldering, the acids created can, over time, corrode the actuator causing it to "hang."

    By moving the lever of a known to be good nearby ZV and comparing the length of the "throw" from manually open to spring tensioned closure, you might be able to tell if they are equal, if the offender has a "shorter apparent stroke," Bingo! the plunger is hung. Make sure you have a complete replacement at hand, then drain the system and pull the body apart (after removing the head) and see what's going on. If the o-ring(s) are toast, or he plunger/piston is boogered/corroded, either clean it up or replace it with the on-hand backup.

    If corroded, you might want to clean the acids and funk out with a TSP wash - before refilling the system with fresh clean water - and then the arduous bleeding that will undoubtedly be required.

    Let us know how it goes.

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