Saving the steamer p.1 w/pic

Daniel_3

Here's the first part of a problem I faced when setting the boiler on the 1" inch footing I had poured weeks ago. . .I found that the vent damper needed to be raised approximately 6-8 inches since using the former hole in the wall would give an inferiorly running vent damper which we all know is no good.

No problem, I just create another hole above the former one . .yea right!
When my house was built they had built the foundation around the vent hole which had a tin support (most likely) and the foundation in this portion of the house below the chimney is actually 3 feet thick with fieldstone! So I have two options: 1.) rent a demolition hammer and compromise the structural support of said portion of the foundation or 2.) dig up the new footing and dig deeper about 4 inches and set the boiler on a new footing deeper than the floor. I took option #2.

I'll have to create some sort of grooves to direct water flow in case of flooding to a lower area where I could put a small condensate pump. Right now I'm just waiting for the concrete to set and my master plumber friend will be by afterwards to continue the job. This is fun stuff!

Steamhead (in transit)

Why not

mount the damper in the horizontal run between the elbow and the chimney? I believe this is an approved placement, but check the manual to be sure.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Unknown

or u can

Or u can go with Wiel Mclain EG boiler, the flue collector is lower and I do what Steamhead recommanded, as long the damper motor housing is not at top or bottom..

tim smith

Hole higher in chimney

> Here's the first part of a problem I faced when

> setting the boiler on the 1" inch footing I had

> poured weeks ago. . .I found that the vent damper

> needed to be raised approximately 6-8 inches

> since using the former hole in the wall would

> give an inferiorly running vent damper which we

> all know is no good.

>

> No problem, I just create

> another hole above the former one . .yea right!

> When my house was built they had built the

> foundation around the vent hole which had a tin

> support (most likely) and the foundation in this

> portion of the house below the chimney is

> actually 3 feet thick with fieldstone! So I have

> two options: 1.) rent a demolition hammer and

> compromise the structural support of said portion

> of the foundation or 2.) dig up the new footing

> and dig deeper about 4 inches and set the boiler

> on a new footing deeper than the floor. I took

> option #2.

>

> I'll have to create some sort of

> grooves to direct water flow in case of flooding

> to a lower area where I could put a small

> condensate pump. Right now I'm just waiting for

> the concrete to set and my master plumber friend

> will be by afterwards to continue the job. This

> is fun stuff!

tim smith

Hole higher in chimney

I would call in a concrete corer, fill in old hole and core new, this wont rattle loose old field stone then and would provide a clean hole, just my .02C worth. Tim

Daniel_3

Even with the damper

in the horizontal position it still was pitched down. I noticed this fairly immediately. Burnham says that you can mount it on the horizontal run but I still had to drop the boiler 4 inches and I thought I was just dropping the header . . man oh man.

Tim,
It would be the extreme and last resort to do such since it's not cost effective and the first option saves much money. After digging I found that it wasn't just 3 or 4 inches of pad but a couple more inches of fieldstone fill beneath. It seems the first heating system, whatever it was, was indeed set in a small pit probably because when the flue shield was formed and put in during the pouring of the foundation they had found, after the fact, that now they have to mate up to the flue which is already permanently positioned.