Sealing between sections - CI boiler

Capetom

to all for your cautions and advice. I wore suitable protective gear and respirator when removing the old material, I did not consider it a high risk as it was not fibrous at all, but why take chances (I suspect it was not the original material). Due to the size of the gaps between sections I will use the rope as suggested by Ken with a skim of furnace cement over the top. With the consistency of furnace cement, it would be difficult to use it as the only material to fill the gaps. - As mentioned I will be using a pro as I move ahead with replacing the existing oil boiler (30 yrs old and oversized but works well) with a modern unit and adding an indirect water heater to replace the existing coil. -- Retaining the coal fired boiler is only for emergency backup (and a bit of nostalgia)because it is already there with a good flue available. I live in a coal mining area so I grew up having one in the basement and am familiar with their operation. - I will likely be back to consult later in the project - Thanks again

Capetom

Hello,

I have an older (1958 AS Severn) coal fired boiler plumbed into the converted gravity oil HW system in a house I purchased last year.

It appears to be in excellent condition other than the sealing material between the sections and was used occasionally by the former owners.

Can anyone recommended the best material/method for sealing these gaps? I have chipped out the old cement-like material.

I will be consulting with a pro on the best way to incorporate the boiler as an emergency backup during planned upgrades to my system.

Thanks

tim smith

CAUTION!!!

That material usually contains asbestos that was in those old boilers. You should have it tested! High temp furnace cement works well for resealing between sections. Normally called furnace and stove cement. Comes in 8oz caulk containers. Tim

Brad White

This is not a do it yourself project I hope

The best advice I can give is to use furnace cement but this may also mean ceramic fiber rope if the gaps are large. Ceramic rope properly applied goes between sections in a recessed groove. Furnace cement comes from the Latin root term for "I gave up".

A professional should deal with this especially with regards to combustion testing even if you are using it as a "swing unit".

Life is worth it.

My $0.02

Brad

Ken_40

Depending of your level of \"awareness,\"...

If you've already removed the old "stuff," probably asbestos and furnace cement combined, a material that looks like rope is available called "non-asbestos" rope. It is in fact a ceramic woven rope-like material, available in various diameters from ~ 1/4" to 2".

Measure the width of the voids between sections and get non-asbestos rope one size larger. Press the rope into the voids and then "snug it home" (almost flush with the sections) with a putty knife or screwdriver. Trim the ends flush with a utility knife.

A thin bead of non-asbestos furnace cement should be applied over the rope to "bind" what may eventually become "minimally loose fibers."

Assuming you wore a decent mask when removing the old stuff, it wouldn't hurt to do the same while installing the new rope. God knows what could be lurking in the immediate area.

If you have any doubts, let a real pro help out. Might just add 20 years to your life!

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