Fastening to clay blocks

Paul Fredricks_3

How about using something like u-channel, screwed to the floor, to mount the plywood on. Then a couple of bolts at the top and through the wall, with a plate on the other side of the wall. I'm not familiar with clay walls, so I don't know if even this would work.

Wayco Wayne_2

I am preparing

to do a job downton that has a clay block wall in the mechanical room that I need to fasten some plywood to. It is hollow and seems kind of fragile. I was thinking of drilling holes and running all thread through since I can get to the other side, but if someone has a better way my ears are open. Thanks for any input. WW

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Ken_40

That stuff's like glass!

Epoxy? Break open a void with an angle grinder/masonary blade and then pack the cavity with a dry (strong) mix of mortar mix - placing a J-bolt in the mud and maybe covering the peanut butter consistant mortar with something to keep it in the cavity, so none deforms overnight?

Send us a picture of whatever you decide on.

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andy_21

3/8" toggle bolts/ wing bolts & if you have a smooth surface add some PL400 or similar construction adhesive to back of plywood before tightening down. we've used this many times before in both concrete block & gypsum block applications.

hot_rod

Red Head A7

is an epoxy product i use. Drill a hole one size larger than the all thread or bolt. Insert the stainless screen 'sock" Squirt the epoxy into the sock, insert bolt or any anchor. About 20 minutes later it is cured. overnight if you plan on a lot of weight.

I hung a Raypak boiler off a concrete block wall with four 3/8 bolts "Red Headed"

Hilti and others sell these small epoxy anchor kits. Quick, clean, and listed for that application.

hot rod

Brad White_177

Terra Cotta

Our specifications prohibit attachment to terra cotta and other clay tile products especially for tension applications. We have allowed (with a structural engineer's blessing) the use of epoxy capsule anchors but only in a shear (not tensile) application.

Otherwise, I agree with those that suggest spanning the system with Unistrut directly to the floor slab or from other competent structure.

When clay fails it is rapid, absolute and unforgiving.

big willy

sounds like adobe

we have alot of adobe mud buildings in my area. although they are not hollow they are really fragile. if the wall is weak I would go as far as putting maching ply on the other side from the ground up and use carrage bolts. Every time I work in a adobe building I hold my breath. All I can think of is 100 year old mud house. Run away

jim lockard

adobe

different Willy--I think what Wayne has is a clay block about 12" x 12" x 5" thick with 3 cavitys or opening each one about 3" x 3" with a 1" thick wall, very common in older Wash DC/East coast buildings. Best Wishes J.Lockard

American plumber

anchors

I like your idea of through bolting.I think it is the easiest and strongest method.

Wayco Wayne_2

I like the idea

of fastening the plywood to the floor and ceiling, and not the fragile tile. Perhaps some kind of strut frame. Thanks for helping me skull this one through guys. It's nice to bounce things off other folks. It's something I don't have much of being a one man shop. (One advantage of being a one man shop is having peace and quiet to think. Ahhhhh! WW

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Chris_82

Generally you can make multiple holes till you fing the concrete that is either above the terra cotta or beside it. Otherwise you have an expensive and heavy thing that will someday fail. And yes multiple holes are not pretty look for the lines of exsisting hangers and make your hangers on these locations using unistrut or pipe but the anchors must be in concrete. The concrete is there, it has to be, it's just hard to find sometimes.