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Air in domestic HW pipes
ScottMP
Member Posts: 5,883
Tell me you did'nt put unions on Both the hot and cold ??
O.K., kiddings over, :).
Is this well water ? Even if its not, I would change the Anode rod to a Aluminum,zinc and tin rod. Sometimes the magnesium rod reacts with the water and makes gas. I had it happen to me but the odd thing was I did the house across the street about a month earlyer, with the same tank, and had No Problems. The other tank gave off gas and by changing the rod it improved.
I do hope you put a Vacum breaker on the tank and it had a T+P relief with it.
Good for you for helping out Mom and Dad.
Scott
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O.K., kiddings over, :).
Is this well water ? Even if its not, I would change the Anode rod to a Aluminum,zinc and tin rod. Sometimes the magnesium rod reacts with the water and makes gas. I had it happen to me but the odd thing was I did the house across the street about a month earlyer, with the same tank, and had No Problems. The other tank gave off gas and by changing the rod it improved.
I do hope you put a Vacum breaker on the tank and it had a T+P relief with it.
Good for you for helping out Mom and Dad.
Scott
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=237&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
0
Comments
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I'm stumped.
Well about a month ago, I replaced a 40gallon electric HWT at my parents house. I used the same size and brand of tank, the only modification I made was installing a ball valve and union on both the supply and return side, for ease of replacement next time. Since then, they've complained of air in the hot water pipes (ie, spitting water while taking a shower, while running hot faucet, etc). I know that a bit of air in the lines is common for a day or so after the installation, but it's been a month.
I'm a plumbing/heating aprentice but our company only does commercial & industrial installation/new construction work so I haven't really got any troubleshooting or repair experience yet.
Anyone have any suggestion as to what this might be, or how to fix it?0 -
I'm stumped.
Well about a month ago, I replaced a 40gallon electric HWT at my parents house. I used the same size and brand of tank, the only modification I made was installing a ball valve and union on both the supply and return side, for ease of replacement next time. Since then, they've complained of air in the hot water pipes (ie, spitting water while taking a shower, while running hot faucet, etc). I know that a bit of air in the lines is common for a day or so after the installation, but it's been a month.
I'm a plumbing/heating aprentice but our company only does commercial & industrial installation/new construction work so I haven't really got any troubleshooting or repair experience yet.
Anyone have any suggestion as to what this might be, or how to fix it?0 -
> Tell me you did'nt put unions on Both the hot and
> cold ??
>
> O.K., kiddings over, .
>
> Is this
> well water ? Even if its not, I would change the
> Anode rod to a Aluminum,zinc and tin rod.
> Sometimes the magnesium rod reacts with the water
> and makes gas. I had it happen to me but the odd
> thing was I did the house across the street about
> a month earlyer, with the same tank, and had No
> Problems. The other tank gave off gas and by
> changing the rod it improved.
>
> I do hope you
> put a Vacum breaker on the tank and it had a T+P
> relief with it.
>
> Good for you for helping out
> Mom and Dad.
>
> Scott
>
> _A
> HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=
> 237&Step=30"_To Learn More About This
> Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in
> "Find A Professional"_/A_
Scott,
You gave me a scare there for a second!
it's city water, and the funny thing is I replaced the 30 gal tank in the basement apartment section of the house 6 months earlier and the "spitting water" thing did not happen. I will look into changing the rod to an alum/zinc/tin one though. Thanks!
In answer to your question, I installed the vaccum breaker on the cold line, T&P is installed and piped into a no-longer-used washer standpipe. I figured I'd use it since there is no floor drain in the room.
-Addam.
if anyone else wants to bite, don't be shy.0 -
Scott,
You gave me a scare there for a second about the unions!
it's city water, and the funny thing is I replaced the 30 gal tank in the basement apartment section of the house 6 months earlier and the "spitting water" thing did not happen. I will look into changing the rod to an alum/zinc/tin one though. Thanks!
In answer to your question, I installed the vaccum breaker on the cold line, T&P is installed and piped into a no-longer-used washer standpipe. I figured I'd use it since there is no floor drain in the room.
-Addam.
if anyone else wants to bite, don't be shy.0 -
Scott has
the best first step. Replace the anode. Sometimes you can determine which type you have by the weld dots on the top plug. Consult with the manufacturer for a replacement of the correct make up.A socket and a long breaker bar is the best removal tool.
No problem with the cold water I assume? Fill a glass, if it look milky then you may have air coming in from the supply water.
hot rod
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