Ohms and electronic ignitors

Norm Harvey

Per carlin tech department

The most difinitive test is to wire your multimeter in the power circute for the ignitor with it set for miliamps. Make sure the oil burner motor is disconected. Set the springs to a half inch gap and start the burner, then jump out FF.

If at any time during a 5 minute duty the miliamps drops below 800 the ignitor is bad.


Im pretty sure its 800. I'll check my notes and correct if necessary

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Rocky_3

What is desired reading

For electronic ignitors, what is the desired ohm readings to see if they are still good or not? Also, do you measure from one pole to ground, then other pole to ground, then across both poles? What are the parameters and acceptable variances?
Any info would be appreciated.
Regards,
Rocky

Ubiquitous

Ohms

Most manufacturers will list a cold ohms resistance on their spec., but it really isn't accurate over the life of the ignitor. It has been my experience to check amp draw instead to tell if an ignitor is good. Different equipment will have different specifications but the manufacturer should be able to help you with what amp draw their equipment requires.

A.J.

ignitors

1200 ohms spring to spring, 600 ohms spring to ground.

Darin(in Michigan)_3

Sorry, no easy answers

The ignitors I see the most are about 100 ohms. The Weil McLain ignitors I believe are about 200 ohms. I don't know about the "Surelight" ignitors from Lennox. I think the 24 volt smart ignitors are about 20 ohms. All measurements are made from terminal to terminal. Rarely are you going to find a partially burned out ignitor.
They are usually all on or off. Also, keep in mind, the resistance goes down the hotter the ignitor and resistance climbs as the ignitor cools off.

Big Ed_3

Ohm

Yes as AJ stated 1200 ohm across , 600 ohm to ground + or - 10% . To tell you the truth Once you check the ground and polarity .I never needed the test. . Either they work or they don't . They don't seem to hit or miss......

Tom Hopkins

In other words...

If the arc knocks you on your butt, it's good to go (;-o)

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Paul Fredricks_3

Do you mean for an oil burner?

Rocky_3

Yes, oil burner ignitors

I have a tester for the old style transformers, but knew I couldn't use it on the new electonic ignitors on oil burners. Use mostly Beckett manufactured ignitors, regardless of what burner they are going on, some France. Thanks for the responses.
Rocky

Big Bob_2

Hit or miss?

Its been brought up here before, Carlin Ignitors often hit or miss, others seem not to.

Paul Fredricks_3

ignitors.

I haven't tried the milliamp test yet. As far as ohms go, it all depends on the temp of the ignitor, but the difference between each terminal to ground should be less than 10%. In all the ones I've tested I've never seen them more than 10% out, and there was still an intermittent problem. Per the Carlin rep, they have identified a problem with a component in the ignitors and have updated them. Date codes affected are from early 2006 and before, but I don't know an exact code.

The problems are when these things run for a while, then try to restart for the next burner cycle. I was told to let in spark for 15 minutes, then cycle it off and back on. Seems to me it would make more sense to just replace it and save the time.

My guess is these ignitors should only be used on interrupted ignition systems. For intermittent, iron core. At least until someone is sure the ignitors can handle the constant duty.

Big Ed

A Little Kick ...

....once in a while is good for the sex drive '

Nick L. in Vt

Date code

> I haven't tried the milliamp test yet. As far as

> ohms go, it all depends on the temp of the

> ignitor, but the difference between each terminal

> to ground should be less than 10%. In all the

> ones I've tested I've never seen them more than

> 10% out, and there was still an intermittent

> problem. Per the Carlin rep, they have identified

> a problem with a component in the ignitors and

> have updated them. Date codes affected are from

> early 2006 and before, but I don't know an exact

> code.

>

> The problems are when these things run

> for a while, then try to restart for the next

> burner cycle. I was told to let in spark for 15

> minutes, then cycle it off and back on. Seems to

> me it would make more sense to just replace it

> and save the time.

>

> My guess is these ignitors

> should only be used on interrupted ignition

> systems. For intermittent, iron core. At least

> until someone is sure the ignitors can handle the

> constant duty.



They call me "Hot Pipe"

Nick L. in Vt

Date code

we have replaced a ton of "01-19-03" coded carlins. about 15 or so i came across this winter.


They call me "Hot Pipe"

Tim_41

Ignitor

I just replaced on about an hour ago.

joe_14

test

on carlin ignitors i use the ten mimute mille amp test. i wire the primary in series with the meter close the buss spring to a 1/2 inch apart then energize the ignitor if the millie amps fall below 300 ignitor is bad. how ever this is not ioo% all the time. i also feel that any ignitor use should be wired so ignition drops this allows the ignitor to run cooler and minimizes RF noise problems. this is for carlin ignitors not sure what valves to test for allansons. if anybody knows please let me know

thanks joe g

joe_14

test

norm on carlin its 300 not sue re on allanson

joeg

Kal Row

On or off? Not necessarily…

My home oven with a igniter operated burner valve like most nowadays – failed in a way, where it was still glowing, but had all but one strand in the wire burnt through, enough drop the current flow to the point where the igniter current operated, heating device (usually bi-metal) in the safety gas valve failed to open it – and now I am sitting with an extra part I don’t need since the old safety valve is just fine, comparing resistance between the lower oven igniter, and the upper broiler igniter would not have helped since a multi-meter sends in so little current, the resistance reading would have been the same on the one strand of wire left, what would have helped, would be comparing the current with a clamp-on meter at the low current setting, this is a “duh” moment cause I should have thought of it - anyway - many HSI base boiler controls look at the current flow before they go to the next stage - so it being lit is no proof either way - nor is resistance!!! - had this a few times on a boilers, that’s why i kick myself for not having thought of it on my home oven

HSIs die regularly = keep spares of all type you service!!! – you will never catch a LAARS service person without a good set of HSIs

Alan R. Mercurio_3

Guys I’m a little confused, where is this 300 number coming from? I usually bring the ignitor springs together within a ½ inch of each other. I then put my meter set to milliamps in series with the hot lead going to the ignitor. I then apply power and observe the results for about 5 minutes. The reading should not vary, staying within 10% of the rated amperage. I have been finding that on most ignitors the rated amperage is 35 Ma

This is the reason I’m respectfully asking, where is this number of 300 coming from?


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