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Over Head Line
Big Ed
Member Posts: 1,117
Remove the check valve because they are useless and just add more chances of a leak. Check valves are for direction of flow only. Most figure it will hold back the oil but it only adds restriction. And if you had a leak it will suck in more air.
Remove any compression fitting .
For half a chance ...make sure all fitting are below the oil line..
Me ....I would add a Tigerloop or a return line and call it a night .Finding small leaks is finding a needle in a haystack . Also the more you monkey around the more chances of adding aditional leaks..
Even if all is tight you are garinteed extra call with a single over head line with out a Tiger loop..Also a pain in the butt trying to get all the air out. A fuel pump will not get it all out, you need to use a push pull pump .and have ball valve right near the connection as it will start to siphon...
Remove any compression fitting .
For half a chance ...make sure all fitting are below the oil line..
Me ....I would add a Tigerloop or a return line and call it a night .Finding small leaks is finding a needle in a haystack . Also the more you monkey around the more chances of adding aditional leaks..
Even if all is tight you are garinteed extra call with a single over head line with out a Tiger loop..Also a pain in the butt trying to get all the air out. A fuel pump will not get it all out, you need to use a push pull pump .and have ball valve right near the connection as it will start to siphon...
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Comments
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Over Head Line
I went on a service call today for a john wood hot water heater. The unit has a beckett burn and the whole unit is only 2 years old. I was there for no hot water. So I opened up the site door and started the unit and bleed the unit right off to see what I had. Right off I had a bunch of air. After a little while it cleared up. This was a place one of our other tech's were at about a month and a half ago. I took a vacuum on the unit and it dropped 2 inches very slowly. About 2 inches in 7-10 minutes. I went around and checked all my fittings. They all were tight and I looked for a bad flare in a couple of places. That seemed fine to. I isolated the pump from the vacuum test and it was still going down slowly. I have a check valve down near the tank. That they installed when we first put the water heater in. Back then there was trouble with air and so they split the water heater and furnace into to lines back at the tank. Each one comes out of a tee and has a check valve then one runs to the furnace, one to the water heater. I was thinking maybe the check valve was not holding causing oil to run back slowly creating air...? I am stumped... I ended up bleeding the unit for a long time. Did find alot of air and no lose fittings. I am just looking for some thoughts on the matter. I would rather not install a tiger loop or anything along those lines I would rather try to find what problem is there0 -
Get Rid
I am assuming the line comes out the bottom of the tank, if it does get rid of the check valve. Make sure there are no dips in the line and purge it very very very well. Does it have the small general filter protecting both units? If so they're cheap change it and see how dirty it has gotten since it was changed.
Leo0 -
Overhead lines
For an excellent article on overhead oil lines, go to onwatchinc.com, home page, publications center, vol. 13. This article was written with much help from Bruce Marshall and a lot of service managers have printed it out for their techs.0 -
Questions.
You mentioned it lost vacuum, but you did not say what the vacuum is when the unit is running. How long is the fuel supply and what size is the line?
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Another area
> For an excellent article on overhead oil lines,
> go to onwatchinc.com, home page, publications
> center, vol. 13. This article was written with
> much help from Bruce Marshall and a lot of
> service managers have printed it out for their
> techs.
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Another area
that can trap air is the descending line to the pump. The oil tends to run in a thin stream along one side of the tubing. The larger the tubing the more likely it is to occur. This is noted in the Tiger Loop instructions and I saw it in a temporary setup using clear vinyl tubing.0 -
not so much
I work in northern california and see very little in the way of oil fired anything. so far every thing I have seen has simple gravity feed. So whats a tiger loop and why.0 -
Tiger Loop
Is a "deareator" a device designed to mount at the oil fired appliance and remove any air that comes in thru the fuel lines. Hope this helps/ I do not do oil either. J.Lockard0 -
It helps to overcome problems like air leaks that don't get fixed. Often it is used as a band-aid in place of correcting the actual problem. Everything has its place. I prefer to fix the leaks.
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Do the Tiger-Loop
There are other advantages to the Tiger-Loop device. It does remove air from the oil stream...or at least let your tech see that there is a leak. The leak still needs to be fixed. The Tiger-loop allows the burner pump to circulate the oil through the pump and T-Loop at higher velocites which tends to preheat it a bit, strip microbubbles, and lower the viscosity of the oil which translates to a clean, quiet, stable flame. It also allows the oil to pass only once through the in-line filter and at the firing rate, so the oil comes to the burner very clean.
If you're doing oil...do a Tiger-Loop...it solves a host of nagging problems. There are several other devices that do the same thing...some of them that have shown up here are not UL tested or listed. The Tiger-Loop has paid its dues and proven ts worth under very harsh conditions.
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