Liquid-Filled Electric Hydronic Heater units

Brad White_172

Here is a recent threat which you may find helpful.
http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&&Message_ID=333923&_#Message333921

There is essentially no difference in electrical consumption, less cycling though and less expansion noises. Same electric bill.

The way the manufactures make the claim that you can cut your heating bill by X percent? Read the fine print- the claims either presume an electric rate Mother Theresa could afford or it presumes operation of heating one room rather than the entire house.

I have no particular brand in mind but I see commonly one or two types, probably made by one or two manufacturers and marketed OEM to other brands. They should be UL/CE listed but I have no idea how often they leak. I have had them for years as spares and not had that issue.

Joseph Sellitto

Liquid-Filled Electric Hydronic Heater units

I now have electric basebord heat. I am considering to replace my electric basebord heating units with Liquid-Filled Electric Hydronic Heater units.
I am concerned with the following questions.

(1) Could i save money by switching from electric basebord heat units to Liquid-Filled Electric Hydronic Heater units by providing a more steady or longer heat flow each time it cuts off?

(2) What is, are the Best brands of Liquid-Filled Electric Hydronic Heater units?

(3) Do these units ever leak over time, and if yes how safe would they be if they leak?

JJ_4

Copy from Old Thread

Note: This is what I wrote in the old tread that Brad mentions:

The important thing to get the most efficient use out of these is to use a proportional thermostat vs. on/off. This way only the current needed to meet heating needs is used and you don't get the swing in temps like with an on/off.

Typically the proportional t-stat (really a controller) will only use 1/4 to 1/2 of the amps of an on-off t-stat. It "looks at" the difference between the room temp and the setpoint an only uses the amperage needed to make the desired wattage (which translates to BTU). Watts = VA, Watts x 3.41 = BTU. Full on (for the on-off stat) is 1500Watts = 240V x 6.25 A, if you only need 750 watts to make setpoint the proportional controller will reduce the amperage input to 3.125A. Saves money.

To minimize temp swings this controller provides the same advantage as a modulating (4-20 mA, or 0-5V) or floating (open/close/off) valve in hydronics vs. a two-position valve. There are two sources Hydrosil and Aube (who makes them for Hydrosil). The links follow.

AUBE: TH106

http://www.aubetech.com/products/produitsDetails.php?noProduit=4&noLangue=2

HYDROSIL: TEMP-1-PTS

http://www.hydrosil.com/thermos.htm


Addendum: I have these thermostats and they typically use 1/4 current to maintain temps once setpoint is reached. So instead of 1500W (6 ft EBB) it is using 375W. Of course the 1500W is cycled on/off, while 375W (or less) is constant....not sure how this would calculate out.