can't get the union piece (?) off the radiator

Ted_9

Sounds like its time to cut and peel. You'll have to cut off the rest of the pipe. Then take a thin metal blade and cut the inside of the pipe in 2 or 3 pieces. Use a flat head screw driver and a hammer and tap the brass in toward the middle.

Caution: do not cut too deep, you'l damaged the threads of the radiator or bushing.

If you have an old radiator in the garage, I would practice on that on first.

<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=373&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>

R. Kalia_4

I'm an amateur. I had the bright idea (from reading these pages) that I would put in TRVs. The house is from ~1920.

Installation in two radiators went fine. On the third, I can't unscrew the piece that screws into the radiator (I don't know what it's called). Instead of the two ridges on the inside, it has two small "pimples" (i.e. they don't run the length of the inside). My spud wrench slips over them. In case it is relevant, this is not actually on the valve end but on the other end...I have to move the valve to the other side of the radiator because the Danfoss is directional.

I cut off the nut with an angle grinder and tried to use a pipe wrench on the remaining piece. I am lifting this heavy radiator off the floor, but the thing won't turn. (I have to "lift" rather than push down because of where the wall is.) Both my pipe wrench and adjustable wrench are 24" long.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Brad White_108

Have you tried

a spud wrench? Sort of a stepped mandrel with grooves to fit those internal ridges.

A little WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, insert the spud wrench inside the bushing to the appropriate depth. Grab your pipe wrench and gently apply pressure. If you need a "helper", stick a piece of 1" or 1-1/4" iron pipe over the wrench handle.

Just remember- Lefty-Loosey Righty-Tighty. Go the other way and you will be out begging for a new radiator. (But I know you know better than that

R. Kalia_4

Yes, I know left from right, but I wrote "escutcheon" when I meant "spud wrench". I am using a spud wrench. I have corrected the first post.

frank_25

rad spuds

> a spud wrench? Sort of a stepped mandrel with

> grooves to fit those internal ridges.

>

> A

> little WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, insert the spud

> wrench inside the bushing to the appropriate

> depth. Grab your pipe wrench and _i_gently_/i_

> apply pressure. If you need a "helper", stick a

> piece of 1" or 1-1/4" iron pipe over the wrench

> handle.

>

> Just remember- Lefty-Loosey

> Righty-Tighty. Go the other way and you will be

> out begging for a new radiator. (But I know you

> know better than that

frank_25

rad spuds

There are times when a HO without the knowledge or tools shouldn't do certain things. You say you are lifting the rad? [Lay it on it's side] That dimple was there for a spud wrench to install the spud. You'll smooth them off trying to remove the spud with a spud wrench. Never, never use a long wrench on the spud without first putting something like a nipple into the spud first to prevent it from squeezing. The use of a good "Rust-Buster" is advised. As a last resort, take out the good ole sawzall and give it two notches longitudinaly, being carefull not to cut the rad tapping. knock out complete chip, use cold chisel and hammer to bend in the remaining edges, and remove. Then run a pipe tap into the rad, install new spud using wick and dope. No problem. But what do I know? I'm just a plumber.

R. Kalia_4

Yes, smoothing them off is probably what I am doing. The problem is that the dimples don't come all the way to the outside edge, they start 1" inside from the edge. So there's not much grip.

But sounds like you are saying I should not use a spud wrench to remove, only to install? If so, how does one remove normally? I didn't understand about the nipple, sorry.

frank_25

nipples, [pipe, that is]

> Yes, smoothing them off is probably what I am

> doing. The problem is that the dimples don't come

> all the way to the outside edge, they start 1"

> inside from the edge. So there's not much

> grip.

>

> But sounds like you are saying I should

> not use a spud wrench to remove, only to install?

> If so, how does one remove normally? I didn't

> understand about the nipple, sorry.

frank_25

nipples, [pipe, that is]

Into the rad spud, you put a smaller diameter piece of pipe such as a nipple. [comes threaded on both ends? an inch long up to 6" from the "store"] This prevents the soft brass spud from collapsing or becoming "egg-shaped" If you egged it, you'll have to cut it as described.

R. Kalia_4

Used a propane torch to heat the area, then when cool I put some Liquid Wrench, then I used an extender on the pipe wrench, finally it came out. (I had previously cut the nut off with an angle grinder.) Many thanks for everyone's advice!

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Often easier to remove the tapping bushing and union tailpiece as a unit and then just install a new tapping bushing.