More fuel tank questions

jim_57

Plastic sleeving for the fill and vent pipes is required in some localities but not others. For the fill pipe 2 1/2" PVC electical conduit works great. Unions seem like a good idea but just another place to leak. Swing ells are usually required to achieve the correct pitch of the fill and vent using ells and nipples not street ells, they reduce the i.d. Tank pitch is 1/4" per foot toward the outlet end. I would set the flanges right on the tile. As mentioned, tile that old probably does have asbestos in it. Remember when it was called VAT (vinyl asbestos tile)?

ralman

fuel tank

As I stated in a previous post, I have noted deficiencies in my fuel tank installation in my basement. An issue I am seeking help with is the fact that currently, the legs are 6" nipple, 1.25" steel pipe with a flange screwed to the bottoms. The legs are placed on irregular shaped pieces of different size and length of wood stacked 2 pieces high. The floor is concrete with a vinyl 12" by 12" tile on top of the concrete. I am not sure if the tile is vinyl exactly, it is old, maybe original to this 55 year old home, it is a vinyl like material. The tile is in good condition. I don't have water leaking in my basement normally, although I did get a little water in 2004, a wet year with the remnants of several hurricanes moving through this area. I plan on changing the legs to 12" and 11" to give me the slope towards the outlet. I am concerned about setting the legs back down on wood or the tile. I think wood may deteriorate, and the tile may have issues due to the weight of the tank. And concrete may cause the the legs to rust. So, what should I set the tank on? Remove the tile? What would you do at your house?
Also, I am considering putting a pvc tube sleeve through the concrete block, replacing the broken block, passing my fill and vent through the sleeve and putting expandable foam insulation around the fill and vent. My thought is an easier removal if ever needs to be. Good idea or not? What about a union on the fill and vent to make the next removal even easier?

Leo

Tanks

The tank resting on wood isn't good so fixing it is a good idea.The pvc sleeve is a good idea but not necessary (it's optional). I don't like unions as they are a joint, which means a source of a future leak. Do the new legs and set them on the tile if they dent it no big deal. If the tile is 50? years old it probably has asbestos in it leave it alone. Now, if the tank is old it may be a sleeping dog and doing all the work to it could cause the dog to wake up and begin to leak. Something to think about.

Good Luck,

Leo

Ron Schroeder

Thoughts

First off around here it is against code to have the tank on wood, or other combustibles. If this is a new tank sloping toward the outlet as is code great, but if this is an old tank retrofit be careful as you might just have a lot of sludge haeded toward that outlet. I would not fear setting the tank with flanges on solid four inch concrete blocks, or have someone cut you some square 1/4 inch steel plates to get off the floor, If you remove enough tile now to set the blocks or flat stock in, no need to worry in the future if you need to repair or replace the rest of the floor. Many times I have put new pipes through old concrete holes sprayfoam the holes and leave enough room inside and out to put a skim coat of mortor around the pipes for a better looking install, same could be done with the PVC, just remember to keep them pitched toward the tank. Many times I find the unions to be helpful with the install when matching piping to existing holes, if cutting new holes while installing I can put them where I want and use no unions, as far as removal Sawalls makes unions obsoete.

Good Luck
Bruce