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Correct Steam Header Piping size

It's supposed to be 2 1/2 all the way to the drip. It may run fine for a while, but as soon as the water gets a bit dirty, it will tend to act up. Do it right once and be done with it.

Boilerpro

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Comments

  • Jeff_43
    Jeff_43 Member Posts: 12


    Last winter we had our old steam boiler replaced. Recently, I was looking
    through all the paper work and noticed that the contracter's piping plans called for 2" pipe on the header. I checked with the manufacture's piping
    instructions and they call for 2 1/2" piping on the header. Obviously, the contracter either didn't read the instructions or ignored them.

    Is this a big enough deal to ask him to re-pipe the header. He gives a two
    year waranty on his work and it's only been 7 months or so. Also, who is
    responsible if a problem does occur, the contractor (who didn't follow the specs) or the manufactuor? I fear I could get caught in the middle.

  • another one?

    What brand, model number the boiler? If you don't follow the manufactor's spec... You will have a problem that no one will want... Why take that chance...
  • Jeff_43
    Jeff_43 Member Posts: 12
    It's a Dunkirk

    The boiler is a dunkirk pvsb-4d. I had the contractor use a dropped header but the pipe is 2". I think, given his warrranty and the cleary marked instructions, that he should replace that portion of the around the boiler piping. Am I off base here?
  • I'm a weil mclain guy

    But I'm sure those who work with Dunkirk will chimes into this post and help ya out. Can you post any pictures?
  • frank_25
    frank_25 Member Posts: 202
    call the installer

    tell him of your concern. His answer will be that he has benn putting in boilers all his life and your size house does not require a 2 1/2' header. [Wanna bet?] Dunkirk oversizes their header because it will produce a better steam, a dryer steam. Allowances are made for the rising water to fall back into the boiler once it enters the riser. If you look at their installation guide, I'm not so sure the drop header is shown. That type of header will produce a dry steam to the system. That's a good job. I'd try this....call the guy, if the system is trouble-some, he changes it. If there aren't any problems, you are both happy.
  • Scott Kneeland
    Scott Kneeland Member Posts: 158


    Many contractors "cheat" and go 2" because they don't have a threader that can thread 2 1/2 " pipe. They figure what the heck is only a 1/2". We do a lot of steam replacements and if you pipe to the MFG instructions 95% of your potentional problems will go away.

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  • Jeff_74
    Jeff_74 Member Posts: 46


    I posted this message a couple of weeks ago and was aksed to post
    a picture. Well, it took me a while to get to it but here's a pic of
    the piping around the boiler. Notice that after the dropped header
    (which is 2 1/2") that there is a reducer on the verticle downside that
    goes to 2" and the horizontal header is then 2". This is where my concern
    lies. It seems to me that this horizontal header should be 2 1/2" according
    to the manufacture's specs.
  • gerry gill
    gerry gill Member Posts: 3,078
    give him a call

    and ask him to repipe it..should be at least what manufacturer says..especially when piped out one side..the velocity is already twice that of duel risers, then reducing it is like putting your finger on a gardenhose discharge..just my opinion..

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  • the installer doesn't have

    From the picture shown here, with all them coulpings on this job, the installer doesn't have a threading machine. In upper right of the pix, bull headed tee? A big no,no. Get the guy back after you read the boiler installion manuel. Have you ordered Dan's famous books on steam heating?
  • Jeff_74
    Jeff_74 Member Posts: 46


    Yes, I have all of Dan's books - keep them by the bed for nightly reading.
    The bull headed T is part of the original install from 1940. There are two run offs serviced on the left of the T and three on the right. (Although I only use one of the left - the other goes to the attic.) The rads on this main have always heated evenly without hammer or spitting, but should it be repiped also?
This discussion has been closed.