Black steel pipe after the relief valve

Unknown

Non ferrus on water heater? Then we can use plastic tubing with ferruos thread onwater heater reilef valves?

Unknown

Had a job fail inspection

On the discharge side of the relief we used a 3/4 black street ell , a 3/4 by 6 inch black nip , and a 3/4 black ell facing down the boiler before we transitioned to copper . Inspection failed .

I realize the theory is the black steel can rust shut completely given enough water discharged , but that is a serious amount of water . I see black steel used on LWCOs that have been routinely blown down with water weekly for decades with just surface rust in the nipples . I've even seen a 10 year old water heater that had 2 3/4 black couplings on the top threads that had the same surface rust as the LWCO nipples .

Given the fact that most of our boilers are iron , the nipple on the boiler side of the relief valve is black steel , some of the relief valves themselves are iron ...... is this code overkill ?

We do this to encourage anyone servicing the boiler to pop the relief valve with a tuneup . I bet seeing a copper to male adapter and copper street ell sticking out of the relief with no easy way to spin off will discourage a few from checking . I'll be using copper by male unions from now on .

Robert O'Brien

What town was that? If you pull the lever on the OEM relief valve you might as well just change it because more than half won't reseat

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Ron Schroeder

Ron

I start with a Copper Male adapter in the Relief Valve, short piece of copper to lenght, Street 90, Copper Female adapter with another Copper male adapter on the drop, Unscerews nicely.

Maine Ken

What code was cited???

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Unknown

Good idea

I'll price that out compared to a copper by male union . Thanks Bruce .

Unknown

Not sure yet

I'll see if I can get that info tomorrow .

Unknown

Town was

North Hempstead , Long Island . I don't do service , I was just assuming it's supposed to be done ? This isn't a common safety check ?

Boilerpro_5

I pipe mine with

A short brass nipple, brass 90 and a copper x male adaptor to a drain pipe leading towards the floor. Used to use copper unions, but this takes alot less time.

Boilerpro

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Bill Nye_2

Rust

The pipe can plug up, I've seen it. The hot water weeps by the seat and it rusts the pipe.

Empire_2

???

I think what you will find is that the street ell was the problem. Can't use street ells and I think close nipples.

Mike T.

Steve_35

We ALWAYS test relief valves

How else can you tell if it will function?

Unknown

yeep

I think it the st el too, too much restriction in the el. I rarely use any st els on any of my jobs. Did the inspector tell you why the job "failed"?

Plumdog_2

Add pressure till you hit 30 lbs.

If you pull on the lever, it only proves that it will open when you pull on the lever. Be prepared to swap it out afterwards because of old age and deteriorated seats, etc.

Plumdog_2

Unwittingly

someone may unscrew the threaded pipe and put in a plug or cap it, causing dangerous situation.

Ray Landry_2

In Mass using non ferrous materials (steel) on relief lines is not up to code... We test the pop safties only with a signature from the ho saying they undersand that it will more than likely have to be replaced.

Unknown

They can also

plug it at the relief valve discharge . All you need is a hacksaw and pliers .

Unknown

Forgot to ask this morning

But it was definitely not failed because of the street ell . There are other places to pipe the relief valve down , but the left side is the most convenient if the homeowner wants to put a bucket under the pipe ( most homeowners want that ) .

Unknown

Plumbdog

said it like I meant to say it - fill the boiler to 30 psi ( check with 2 gauges of course ) , and wait till it pops . I've accidentally left the fast fill up on old systems and seen the pressure go past 40 without popping .

Unknown

Bill

How long did it take to clog the pipe ? Was the pipe on the boiler side of the relief valve clogged also ? You think the reaction to open air accelerates the process , compared to the piping before the relief valve ?

clammy

steel drops

hello ron ,i failed only once for what you sre talking about because the end of the drop piece was threaded ,i would guess they though that some one would put a cap on it .But aside from that i never have failed a inspection because of that or maybe the inspector did not notice it .Usually i do a steel nipple and a elbow then a male adpter and the drop piece ,I know how hated it is to have to break out the tourch to either remove the ell or to re solder it espically on a cold and busy nite .Peace and good luck .PS i was on long island early this week what's up with those little biting no see them insects i got bitten to death on a roof top job getting bite between the pouring rain . clammy

Al Corelli

Failed Inspections

I have also failed an inspection for having the drop piece threaded.

Unknown

Aw man , you shoulda let me know

Where on the Island ? I was out east camping for Memorial Day weekend and got bit by some of them things , still have the marks . But that ain't nothing compared to the inchworms and their ....... poop . It rained inchworm crap all Memorial Day weekend long in Wading River . The Horror .

Larry_24

steel pipe on a releif valve failed?

Just something to think about, all commerial boilers have steel drops on them. Depending on the size, it you make at a chioce of screw pipe or welded. Under 4" I try to use screw but there are time I have use welded they are flanged. so the next time the inspector says all cooper ask him why commerial boilers use steel?

Larry

clammy

long island

In freeport as always helping a buddy out ,the job was straight forward stuff but thoses freaking insects where killing me and i thought the traffic in jersey was bad long island traffic was a nightmare i don't think i could handle that traffic all the time it would drive me to depression .I am a true hater of traffic i try to plan most of my job travel time to beat all that stuff.peace and good luck clammy

hr

Another method I use

is a male X compression adapter in the relief valve. Simple, quick, and still provides a union connection for easy relief valve replacement.

I agree if you pop them plan on replacing most. Or save one step and just install a new one before you go through the slow leaker frustrastion.

Seems they only start to seep when you are back at the shop

hot rod

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J.C.A._3

HR, don't forget....

At dinner time or a wonderful Sunday afternoon when it gets noticed! I'm curious to hear the result Ron. Chris

Plumdog_2

Relief valve cost

why does a Temperature and Pressure relief valve (like for a water heater) only cost 4-5 bucks; but the Pressure only type for boilers costs 30?

Unknown

how many?

How many water heaters vs hydronic heating systems? The more you make them, cheaper the cost?

Dave Belisle

All codes pertaining to relief valves require a non ferrus metal to be used after the relief valve.

We use a brass 3/4 male x 7/8 compression fitting in the relief valve and then install the copper
line down to within 18 inches of the floor on a boiler and 6 inches on a water heater