rems t drill

ScottMP

I have always looked at these tools but never bought one.

It appears that the "fitting" it makes is only about an eightth of an inch deep. Thats enough for a joint ??

It must be cause you guys use them ....

Scott

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[Deleted User]

is it a good tool

I have been trying to decide if i want to purchase a t drill. Is the one by rems a good investment? What sizes tees can i make with the rems?
I have always used the milwaukee one while working for other mechanical contractors but i cant seem to find one used under 1000$, so basically i am trying to decide if the rems is worth the money or should i keep saving?

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EdyLogicMstr.

REMS

The Accu-Press and Curvo have been quite impressive. Not cheap. I'd like to add their Tee drill soon & then I'll rarely use a fitting. "SWOOPY bends." Love the lack of pressure drop:-)

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hr

Which model?

I have the combo Twist/ Hurrican. It will pull tees up to 7/8" and expand tube (make couplings) to 7/8.

Be nice if it would pull 1-1/8.

It's not as high tech as the T-Drill brand. It takes two steps. It is much lighter and fits into tighter spaces than the T- Drill brand.

I have pulled hundreds of tees with mine. It's a very well built tool, as are all the REMS products. You can remove that hex adapter, purchase a chuck and use it as a corded drill. I believe Metabo makes the drill motor portion for REMS. Nice quality drill.

To be honest I do not use the expander all that much. Consider the Hurrican version.

Or the hand ratchet version Hurrican H.

hot rod

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Larry Weingarten

Suppose it depends...

... on how busy you're going to keep the tool. I've used a REMS kit for pulling 'T's for years. I only use it intermittantly, but for around $350, it was the right thing to get. I have had some trouble with sticky threads, but nothing too serious. My kit goes up to 3/4".

Yours, Larry

Kevin O. Pulver

Scott,

I assume we all silver braze these 1/8" joints we're talking about? I had a guy drop a roof on a pair of manifolds I made and they hold up very well. The joint will bend back and forth without coming loose. Since you can't silver braze the brass Pex fittings, (too much heat) I silver braze short 1 1/2" pieces of 1/2" copper and then soft sweat the brass adapters into those.
I have a Rothenberger that was about $400 and I use a large Hole Hawg drill to pull them quickly. It seems to be a good tool, but I was a bit disgusted that it doesn't come with an owner's manual of any sort. You can't even buy a $20 toaster without getting a pamphlet to tell you how to get the best service out of the thing. If I were going to try it again, I'd look at the Rems before I bought. Kevin

hr

Sure you can braze brass to copper

I prefer the Harris Blockade product for this as it has a lower melt point.

A gas fluxer also makes a nicer joint.

Manifolds from the manufactures have barbed brass adapters brazed into them. I have used Watts Radiant, Sioux Chief, Alberta T-Drill and these PHP brands.

As for the shallow socket, check out AC coils these days. Many have copper just drilled into, and brazed. Without a raised tee.

I believe there is a standard for pulled tees. I've seen it listed in T-Drill manuals and also at the CDA website.

T-Drill added a second dimple to their tool a number of years back to meet some military spec or something like that. I remember them running an ad campaign when that happened.

hot rod

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Couderay

I have a Rothenberger brand tee puller and a swaging tool from them also, they both work flawlessly you do have to be careful at first with tee puller but any drill works no special drill needed 1/2 chuck and your in. Swaging tool goes up to 1 1/4 as they may have bigger sizes. Haven't used a copper coupling in years and it works on dented fittings. I have soldered joints on pulled tees, but brazing is more peace of mind