How to install radiant in existing log home?

[Deleted User]

I am aware of the class action against Goodyear however, that dosen't solve the problem. Failure with the Entran II can occure in many ways. Most often getting brittle and cracking at manifolds or most often destroying heat exchangers due to the sludge that builds up in the tubing due to the lack of the oxygen permability layer. My fear is that the sludge is already building up in the system and stopping the flow in zones. Most contractors in my area (minneapolis) don't even whant to come out to look when they learn more of the problem. I guess that there is way to much work in this area. The biggestg challenge is the upstairs. Can I lay it out right over the existing? On the main level I can still get to it from below for a staple up if the heat will pass up through the existing floor. The basement I'll just lay it out over the current concreat and hope the the heat will rise enough to heat that much concreat. I would be open to a smaller tubing forced air retro fit if someone can think of a way to run it, since with the log home there is no walls to snake it through????

[Deleted User]

How to install radiant in existing log home?

I bought a log home in minnesota last year and have discovered that it has heatway entran II tubing. With the potential for failure, (already not working in a bathroom) we are looking at replacing the system. The challenge that we are having is that no one wants to come out and take on the challenge. How do you go about installing radiant in an existing home ( all three levels). Forced air is out since it is a log home and no walls to run it in. I would be open to it if anyone has a suggestion. Any sugestions???

Bob Sweet

mike

Google search on Entran II, check out your options.

Mark Hunt

Entran II


Well, there are MANY Entran II systems still running out there. More than what failed. You say that the bathroom is "not working". Ok. That would have nothing to do with the issues Entran II had.

Entran II failed when it cross-linked and became brittle. The insides still worked.

If yiou have an issue with a zone, address the zone. Entran II is probably not what is wrong here

Mark H

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hr

There is a bunch of $$

available for Entran 2 owners. Dosen't matter if it is bad, currently. Something to the tune of 250 million is in an account. If not claimed within five years it goes back to Goodyear!

There has only been around 1000 claims so far, and an estimated 10,000 E2 installs out there.

I've heard they will allow up to $75.00 per foot for concrete slab installs. 3000 square feet of slab could qualify for $225,000 bucks.

Worth looking into!

Then find a contractor that could come up with retro fit options.

hot rod

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hr

Plenty of options

for retro fits. First I would suggest you get a heat loss calc done, if you don't already have one. Then you could chose the system that will give you the needed output.

If possible I would use transfer plates under any floor you could still get to.

On the upper levels look into Watts Subray, Wirsbo QuikTrac or the Viega Climate Panel product. These are about the thinnest products out there that could go on top. I'll bet there is a path to get a S&R up to these manifold locations.

Did you contact Wirsbo for some local contractors? I met a handful, from thet area, at the Wirsbo Contractor Days and Wetstock, recently, that would talk to you.

I would still cash in on the Goodyear fund if possible. As I understannd it you do not have to use the same product to get that fund money. Maybe call Jim at 303-652-3097. He is a Colorado contractor, E2 claim agent, that handles E2 claims and would have the real scoop on that process.

hot rod

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Unknown

how is your tubing currently installed on the first and second floors? In concrete, or in the joists?

gary bettcher

Mike

Whats your location In minnesota Mike , I could take a look at your project . Wirsbo quick track could be a easy fix for your problem. My e-mail is gbettcher@citlink.net

[Deleted User]

Basement is in cement, both the main and upstairs are on top of the subfloor with in thinset.

Unknown

you definitely don't want to go under the thinset then. That's asking a little much from a joist system.

I would first have a system inspection done and make sure that zone didn't stop working from an air bubble or other such easily remedied problem. You could be just fine as-is.

If that's no good, you're either looking at a 1/2"-3/4" buildup on top of the concrete, minimum, or some other solution. Perhaps radiant ceiling, or panel radiators.