Slantfin 30 Baseboard Install

KBP&H

Whhyy does slant fin put those stupid paper templates behind the brackeys- they are harder to take out than the bb is to put in, as if your supposed to drill a 7/8 hole for a 3/4 pipe -- the slant fin nailertool is about 9" long and the nail slides inside the outer tube w/ a punch sticking in the end=

Eric_11

Slantfin baseboard install for First time DIY

I am installing Hydronic baseboards and i have a few simple questions for the experienced.
Presently i have the carpet pulled back, the tackless and base molding removed
1- How high up should the bottom of the heater be from the sub floor? Should it be shimmed before i secure it to the wall? Or leave it flat on the floor?
2- When securing the wall, what is the recommended distance and quantity of fasteners? I figure i need to stay away from the ends to allow for the end caps, but what is the required amount of screws needed per length?
3- Do I make these screws tight? Or do I make the holes larger than the screws and leave them somewhat loose to allow for expansion (like vinyl siding)

bob young

baseboard

after you put back the tackless & carpet that you removed for no reason you will be ready to start the project. mount the baseboard about an inch above the rug to allow for circulation. screw in tight to studs at both ends & about three foot on center. have fun

Eric_11

Thanks Bob

The carpet was coming up anyway (thats next months project) and the tackless was removed to be able to get the base molding off....Do you have any easier suggestion for removing/cutting the base molding? I figured it was just as easy to pull the entire molding off than to have to cut it lengthwise
Thanks again.

bob young

moulding

i usually try to leave the moulding. it makes a solid backing to secure the radiation & and no repair to speak of. you can add some filler or trim to finish off if gap is unpleasant to the eye.

bob_50

How high is

your moulding? 30 is 77/8" tall and if you hold it 1" off tthe floor approx 9". Is your molding taller than that! I would make verticle cuts with a back saw. They don't have to be dead nuts because the end caps are adjustable. One of the nice features of Slant-fin is it goes straight from the box to the wall. You don't have to take it apart. I use a Slant-fin nailing tool and 8d nails. Be careful you don't pinch yourself in the nailing tool. Don't try to pry the old moulding off the wall until you drive all the nails through with a nail set. If it takes you more than half a day to do the whole house your foot-draggin. ;>} bob

Eric_11

The Moulding is only 4" high from Subfloor so i am opting to remove it instead of leaving it on and adding a shim.
I do not have the slantfin nailing tool and did not know they were "box to wall" easy... i have taken them apart to hang on the wall and am drilling holes and securing with drywall screws.
I didn't use a nail set to drive the nails through in the first room, but will for the rest.... good tip thanks
And i hope you were kidding about 1/2 day for whole house... cause i'm at full day and have not reach 1/2 the house...Guess i'm making too many rookie mistakes.
Thanks Bob(s)