leaking baseboard valve - what a mess!!

Scooter Libby

That could be Burnham Baseray, pretty common baseboard. (Note: they are not "radiators", they are baseboard.)

The ones we have don't have something you push to bleed, we need to loosen the bleed valve with a screwdriver. Bleed valves are fairly standard items, you can buy one at Home Depot for $3 or so and replace it. Of course you'll have to drain or isolate that zone, and remember to put pipe dope on the thread, and so forth, so not a job for a complete amateur but certainly a typical DIY'er job.

This assumes that the problem is where you say it is. Your photo has little detail; can you show the actual area where the valve is that is leaking?

Even before you replace the valve, you could try tightening it (screw it further in where the valve goes into the body of the baseboard). Not the cap of the valve or whatever, but the whole valve should turn. This requires a suitable wrench. You don't have to drain the system to tighten the valve, but I am not responsible if you make the problem worse. If you are not reasonably sure of what you are doing, and know how to turn off the water if it starts spurting out, etc., call an expert and pay the money, it's worth it.

Joanna

leaking baseboard valve - added pics

So I'm a first time homeowner (bear with me!!)... and my house has cast iron baseboard radiators. The valve on the bathroom radiator will NOT stop leaking. (This is the valve you push to bleed the radiator.) I've tried taking the screw cap off, thinking it was pushing the valve down. Didn't work. I tried tightening the screw cap to stop the water flow. Didn't work. Now my walls are getting ruined, and I'm running out of towels to soak up the water.

The heat hasn't been on recently (I'm in Philly), so the water that's leaking is cold. Help! Maybe turning the heat on would help? I just don't know. I've read so many books, Googled this so many times, and can't figure out how to fix it. Thanks!!!!

p.s. Added pictures. The bathroom radiator is what's leaking; the valve is right next to the toilet, though you probably can't see it in the picture. The white radiator is in the kitchen, it's just a closer view of what all the radiators in my house look like.

John Starcher_4

Joanna-

Can you post a picture of it?

Starch

Guy_6

valve

By what I am reading, I assume that there is an auto-vent on the baseboard, like a vent-rite type valve. It is a small metal canister about 2 inches tall, with a "tire valve" on top. Often if you depress the schrader valve it will not re-seat. It happens with age (as do a lot of other things).
The simple solution is to have a contractor take the pressure off of the system and replace the vent. They can determine if an auto-vent is really necessary; a manual bleeder would be less visible, and may be sufficient.

Joanna

many thanks - better pictures

Exactly, like a schrader valve on a bike tire. I'm attaching more detailed pictures... It wasn't leaking at all until i started removing the bathroom wallpaper - the same day the toilet starting leaking. Argh!

will smith_4

Betcha-

This a system that has had recurring air binding problems for whatever reason, and someone removed the normal radiator vent and put in an auto vent. Sometimes the valve gets partially clogged with sediment, and won't reseat, and... sometimes the seal fails. It's just rubber, so it's just a matter of time, but if you can't get it to stop, it's time to replace it tit for tat, or put in a regular radiator vent.

bob young

easy fix

a simple service call. drop the pressure , replace valve , restore pressure , pay the man , see you later , heat is restored. should take about a half hour start to finish.

ScottMP

Joanna

Try this .. I am not kidding ... give it some wacks with the handle side of a screwdriver. Sometime dirt gets stuck under the air vent. I've done that to stop it untill we get back.


If that dosn't work or even if it does, you need to get it replaced. Thats a lousy style vent and will leak again.

Also if your in a jam try tightening down the cap on top. the little metal cap. Maybe a little somthing under the cap. I've put teflon tape under them in a pinch, untill we can replace it. Thats what you have to do REPLACE IT. You need to bite the bullet and call a proffesional to change it. It a simple job but more than can be explained over the internet and other things can happen doing the change. Its better to have a pro do it.

While your waiting, try what I said. Maybe a little cotton thread or a small bit of rubber in the cap before you tighten it down.

DO NOT over tighten it. You could break it and then your ..... down the river with out a paddle, late at night.

Good Luck

Scott

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JIMBO_2

Strange

I have 3 rooms with similar ci baseboard, and each of them seems to collect air. The rest of my ci rads are fine, but if I try to bleed the baseboard, every 3 weeks or so (because I know they have air inside) I get a considerable aount of air to bleed off. Is it the design of the baseboard?

Al Gregory

More than likely a bad expansion tank or presure reducing valve causing the air.

Weezbo

Caleffi makes a sharp replacement...

has a small check valve that screws right in to the tap, then the air eliminator "Keyed"screws into it.

Jomar makes some pinner valves X 1/8th " same deal basically except the pinner jomar valve wont accept many of the air eliminators as in order to close the valve the diverter would have to be removed rendering it a bit more hit and miss of an operation...the jomar could be used however with the caleffi check valve and keyed air eliminator as it is designed to fit and function. ask for them by name you will be glad you did.

Weezbo

good thought Cause....

cause might even dive into the realm of piping layout...as who is to say it ever worked correctly...in which case the jomar would be particularily helpful as you could use it to eliminate air and valve off the automatic eliminator, as in some instances, an air eliminator can become an air addmittance valve:(