Basement Piping Problem

John Starcher_4

Auto vent should work, but install a valve, too. That way you can replace the auto vent if it ever starts leaking w/o having to drain the system.

Make sure you leave an access panel.

Starch

Edit: When I say an autovent will work, I'm assuming you have a bladder type expansion tank. If you have an "old style" tank, then autovents are a no-no.

Frank_44

Pipe ReRoute around I-Beam

In order to remove a column in my basement, I am adding two W8 I-beams alongside an exist S7 I-beam. This creates a conflict for the two 2" supply and return lines that are just kissing the bottom of the S7 beam since the W8 beams are 1 inch deeper and would intersect the pipes. (not good) I don't want to route below the beams and lose headroom. I assume if I route above them and then back down I will create a huge air pocket. How would I bleed the pipes? Do I need to use dielectric unions on a closed system (w/circulator)?

Empire_2

Frank.

Go above with a 90*vent ell and you shouldn't have a problem. Does the system have purge capabilities? If so I would do it. If you are really paranoid, put 2 vent 90'S on the risers, up/down and should be fine. When you are hurting for room or space, sometimes ya gotta do this.

Mike T.

Stephen_6

just use a hole saw and cut two holes in the I-beam.

Brad White_9

Famous... Last...Words... (NM)

Brad White_9

And/Or

if the vent itself is not easily accesible up in the joist pocket, use a similar vent el with a 1/2" or even 1/4" soft copper bleeder to a micro ball valve or petcock at a more convenient location. Done.

Frank_44

Ouch

I wouldn't want to bore holes in the I-beam since their location would be close to the center (point of maximum bending moment).

Frank_44

vent type

Would you trust an auto vent or should I make an access panel and install a manual bleed?

Brad White_9

Exactly, Frank.

Exactly.

Brad White_9

Manual.

Nothing less than that will do. This is not a system filled and emptied on a regular or automatic basis. Vent it, close it and forget it.

Charles G.

Piping

Trying for a Darwin honorable mention?

Unknown

the way

The way I do it if possible.. I hooked up the upper fitting to the return side of radaitor, that way, it be vented whenever its done... No autovent, panel valve...etc... Never use dieselctric unoins on heating system...

Jeff Lawrence_25

I got bit on that one

I was called once a long time ago to look at a leaking auto vent of a HW heating system. The installers did not put a valve there so the system would have to be shut off and the pressure releived so the vent could be changed. No big deal right?

Wrong. The decided to seal it off and hope for the best. The owners didn't want the system pressure releived at all. Something about 3 months to get the last of the radiators bled of the air. (No, the system was not pumping away)

Weezbo

use a Jet Vent and put it in line as a coupling...

when you connect Two halfs of a "Saddle"around the red iron made with your curvo by REMS. *~/:)

Trust me on this one:)

[Deleted User]

You'd be suprised...

at what I've had structural engineers let me do to their beams. It's a matter of loading. Residentially speaking, there's really not much load there.

They won't let you turn it into swiss cheese, but they will allow you to make holes of certain sizes certain distances apart. Best run it by a qualified structural engineer before you break out with the cutting oil...

ME

Constantin

Hmmm...

I always thought that the holes shouldn't be in the web at either end of the beam. The bending moment mostly affects the flanges, putting one in compression and the other in tension. The web in the middle is principally there to transfer vertical load, resulting in shear?

... oh it's been a while since I was in Dr. Sanayei's class!

Georgia Pacific has a wooden I-beam with rather large holes in it that they advertise for residential applications with uniform loading. See it here.

Brad White_9

That is correct

To cut in Willy Nilly (whomever the heck he is) into a beam is asking for trouble.

Our guidline in the office is the "middle third of the middle third", meaning the center third of the beam length and the center third height of the web. These all of course would be run by the structural engineer and often reinforced to a point where they just have to be stronger than the original beam...

Wood joists and engineered lumber are quite different, practically the opposite of course.