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Drilling/Tapping Cast Aluminum

The Wire Nut
The Wire Nut Member Posts: 422
... we used to use them a lot at my former employer as screw inserts in some of the softer metals they machined... parts for satellites and the like. A great system for securing bolts, and very efficient from a weight point of view.
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Lost in SOHO NYC and Balmy Whites Valley PA

Comments

  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928


    I have a commercial popcorn popping kettle to repair. One of the bolt holes securing the bracket that keeps the thermostat in contact with the kettle is stripped.

    Kettle is cast aluminum--presumably a decent grade. Have never drilled/tapped cast aluminum before.

    What should I watch out for/do?
  • ALH_4
    ALH_4 Member Posts: 1,790
    Insert

    How about a Helicoil?
  • Larry C_5
    Larry C_5 Member Posts: 10
    Aluminum

    It is softer than steel obviously. Use cutting oil and then "Tap-Magic" for aluminum.

    Why did the hole strip out? Can the thermostat bracket be mounted using a larger bolt in the same hole location? Do you have enough depth for 2+ complete threads threads? If depth is an issue, you can use a bottoming tap to get another thread or two.
  • Joe_75
    Joe_75 Member Posts: 57



    use only cutting oil for aluminum and plenty. Course threads are better then fine. Thread a nut onto the tap first use the nut as a guide to start the tap with a wrench on the nut and against the stock. then back the nut off, turn the tap one turn and tighten the nut to straighten the tap, back the nut off and repeat until you have a few threds started. This is the best way to tap a strait hole in thin AL. I would use a starter tap forst then run a bottom tap to clean the bottom of the hole. Use a small tap wrench too.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928


    I really don't know why it stripped out. The bolt is fine but just barely grabs at the very bottom threads and then it pops loose after a few heating/cooling cycles. Once the body of the thermostat is no longer in contact with the kettle, it starts cycling on air temperature and never gets hot enough to pop corn.

    I should be able to go up one bolt size without problem. The bracket itself is quite a beefy piece of steel and I can enlarge the hole a bit if necessary. The other two mounting holes for the bracket are fine.

    Might try making the existing hole a bit deeper, but it doesn't look like there's much leeway--the sides are slightly tapered and I don't want to risk drilling through to the inside of the kettle.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928


    Just may try that or similar before I attempt to drill and tap.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928


    This is at the perimeter of the cast aluminum kettle so it's quite thick there. Current bolts extend at least 1/2" into the kettle. Am afraid to go much deeper though since the sides are slightly tapered and the hole will surely break through to the inside of the kettle.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    After you re-tap

    clean the oil out of the hole and off the bolt, with some contact cleaner, then use Loctite when reinstalling the bolt.

    Aluminum threads strip easily when the bolt starts to loosen.

    Or glue a stud in and Locktite on an acorn nut for a cleaner look :}

    hot rod

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  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106


  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928
    THANKS EVERYONE!

    Was able to make the existing hole about 3/8" deeper. Tapping seemed to go perfectly. Cleaned nicely and used Locktite.
This discussion has been closed.