Internal flow check circ

Unknown

A case where a picture is worth at LEAST 1000 words...

Frenchie

I have a 2 zone hot water baseboard system. It has 2 standard circ pumps and no zone valves. When the 1st floor zone runs, it also "ghost flows" the upstairs zone and overheats the bedroom I sleep in. If I had the circ pumps changed to the IFC type, should that eliminate this problem?? Thanks, Jason.

ALH_4

That depends

Have a photo or schematic of the piping?

Weezbo

depends....

while internal checks check flow through a pump..heat still likes to go to cold. any pipe becomes a "circuit" for that flow unless it is decoupled ...

that means it is indeed possible one check may not be enough in and of itself.

Unknown

A thought...

If you run the 2nd floor with the 1st floor off does it then have "ghost flow" in the first floor circuit? If so, I'm thinking a temporary quick fix might be to turn down the 1st floor stat and set the 2nd floor stat so it calls for heat first. Like these other guys said, without a picture or diagram it'd be tough to say that checks would definitely be a permanent fix.

Frenchie

more info

After looking at it further... the 1st floor circuit comes directly out of the boiler with a taco 007 pump. after that pump, about 6 feet away, the upstairs zone is pumped(teed) out of that supply pipe with a tiny B&G nrf pump. The upstairs zone pulls water through the 007 pump even if that pump is off. I guess I can't flow check that one!! When just the upstairs calls, it works fine and does not heat up the first floor. the little pump pulls water away from that main zone, it doesn't push water into the main zone. But when the main zone 007 turns on it pushes water through both zones. If I changed just the upstairs B&G to IFC pump, would this stop the water from pushing through it without it running? Or even slow it down a little? I don't have a camera..... This upstairs zone was just separated from the main zone last year by a scorched air heating/plumbing guy. Here in the midwestern boonies we don't have any hydronic pro's.....its all gas forced air.......

Glenn Sossin_2

agree 2nd check

I agree a 2nd check would be a good idea.

If heat is transferring though to the other pipes by means of conduction, you might consider splicing in a foot or so of barrier pex in the line and/or installing heat traps. This will create a significant reduction in heat energy transferred by means of conduction and any resulting convection flows created by it.

Glenn Sossin_2

can you solder or repipe ?

Based on your statement Maybe this simple drawing will clarify your situation ??

Frenchie

Glenn

Thanks, Glen! that is exactly how it is set up now. I could change it to the second diagram no problem. I see you have check valves at the supply and return of both zones. Looks like I could do that no problem.

Glenn Sossin_2

your welcome

This should solve your problem then. For what its' worth, I've seen situations like yours in the East too. Good luck

Bryan_16

boonies

I'm in the midwest boonies, maybe I can help. Where are you located. Bryan

hr

I'd use one circ and two zone valves

I doubt that 2 circs are needed to move the amount of btus you have. Why spend 160 watts when possibly 60 will do the job (Grundfos 15-58 on speed 1 or 2)

Use a check circ on the supply downstream from the purger and expansion tank and the zone valves on the returns.

Now you have a lower power consumption system with check protection on both sides.

Or wait till the smart circs are available and pump with 20 watts or less and have built in delta p control

hot rod

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Glenn Sossin_2

Sure your right about the 2 pumps.

He's in the boonies, they don't know from zone valve do they?? If they piped it this way, just imagine how they'll wire the 2 zone valves.