what would you do ?

Unknown

what is the most baseboard you would run off a monoflow system where the baseboard is below the main ?

Glenn Sossin_2

2 tees and a ball valve

If its a large amount of board, use 2 tees, the second one at the end reversed to help pull the water through. If possible, install a ball valve between the 2 tees. This will insure the ablilty to purge the baseboard adequately.

Do you fully understand the monoflow concept? Are you using modulating valves on this loop? Why did you make the decision to go this way?

Unknown

I've read "How Come" so I get the idea. Check out the pic. this is the situation. I'm more interested on how to hook up something like this. My first instinct is to make the baseboard part of the main & keep it all 1 1/4" to not disrupt flow through the rest of the system. Any suggestions ?

Unknown

here's the pic ?

Unknown

If the main rapped around the ceiling it would be any easy answer question. The main enters the room half way up, then goes up the wall into the ceiiing

Alan_11

Seperate zone

Why not pipe it as another zone? Are you trying to heat the basement off the first floor zone?

Unknown

Good input from Glenn,

and make sure you understand the monoflow concept.

Dave

Uni R_3

Anywhere...

Anywhere you can conveniently put in 2 diverter tee fittings with 14' of 1¼" pipe in between them should work fine. As long as you pipe down just to rad height the branch won't ever require purging (U shape).

Unknown

check out the picture. Where in that main would you connect your baseboard ? And you can't make it another zone due to client retrictions .

Noel

That's the simplest

Use 1 1/4 inch fin tube and connect it in series. It won't effect the rest of the loop that way.

Of course, you won't be able to vary the flow on that particular piece of baseboard.

Noel

Uni R_2

You're in a far better position to visualize...

We have no clue how accessible the piping is. My advice would be to find somewhere along the main where you can get 14' between the tees. I'd also tee down rather than laterally unless you're really stuck. As for the 14', a few more and a few less feet won't matter too much if that becomes a challenge. Watch that the path of all the piping allows any entrained air a clear path back up to the main pipe, otherwise you've got an air trap that you don't want. The only thing you'll need is a valve somewhere on either the supply or return leg to the HWBBs (in case you ever want to limit the flow or if you find that it is overradiated). Or, if you install ball valves on both ends, closer to the tees, that might be a a better idea. Then if you have any leaks, the amount you'll have to drain down the system may be limited to what's between the valves.

Have you done room by room heatloss calculations to find out how much baseboard you need? If you haven't you really should. WAGs and hydronic heating can be a very bad combo.

Unknown

Yes I did a heat loss. Again you don't have to visualize, look at the pic. The piping is right there. thanks