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Viega Propress

hot_rod
Member Posts: 24,641
plastic and thermoplastics. PB, PE, PEX and a few others. They use plastic fittings with copper terminals that you clamp on to to fusion weld them. Instead of those funky heated tongs we used with large PB years ago :)
The fittings have bar codes that you scan that tells where to set the machine to "weld" the fitting onto the pipe.
I met a pipefitter recently that works in this industry and he explained the latest methods. He said the press fittings are on their way out in that industry.
Ship may have hot and cold domestic water, waste water, bilge water and desalinated water, all use different materials and colors to keep them identified.
hot rod
The fittings have bar codes that you scan that tells where to set the machine to "weld" the fitting onto the pipe.
I met a pipefitter recently that works in this industry and he explained the latest methods. He said the press fittings are on their way out in that industry.
Ship may have hot and cold domestic water, waste water, bilge water and desalinated water, all use different materials and colors to keep them identified.
hot rod
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream
0
Comments
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What do you think of the Viega Propress?
I saw a beautiful copper install in another thread in which the guy said he used a Viega Propress. I was unfamiliar with that, so I looked it up.
There are battery and corded models of the pressing tool.
I read somewhere that the fittings may be turned after compression, but still don't leak.
The whole deal seems kind of expensive to me, but I understand there is to be considerable time savings.
Is the joint as strong as soldering? Does it need to be supported better?
The thread I saw it in was getting kinda long, so I decided to start another thread.
I'd like to know what you think about the whole system ( or similar ).... thanks0 -
old man
There have been many posting regarding Propress on this site. So check the archives for a real sense of what peeps think. Me I have a Ridgid Ct-400 which is the corded version and I love it, a little heavy but its fast and I have not had any leaks. Doing mostly service and replacement work with old wet copper your always prone to have leaks with Propress you can press a valve on wet if you have to. My best tool investment yet. Best Wishes J.Lockard0 -
That's fine
but the search only results in the posts that contain the search keywords... and I didn't find too many of them.
If I made a search inquiry re: the Viega Propress, my post would show up. If your reply did not mention Viega Propress, it does not.
These fittings are guaranteed fo 50 years, so if one fails, what... you get a new fitting?0 -
Well old man
I went to Search typed in Propress(title and text) and for the last 30 days there are in excess of 170 postings, Hope this helps. Best Wishes J.Lockard0 -
Perhaps there's someone
for whom it wouldn't be too much trouble to just tell me what they think of the Rigid ProPress and the Viega fittings.
Or not, if you don't care to... that's OK too.
I suppose I could try to sift through a couple hundred posts that largely have nothing to do with my question, and include my question, but I'd rather waste the computer resources to read fresh remarks, relevent to my question... if it's Ok with the forum police.... but by now I imagine the question, and the thread is pretty much shot in the anus.
thanks0 -
PROPRESS ARE GREAT
I've been using them for 7 or 8 years now and I have had no trouble at all. I use them on all my hot water boiler piping. It looks very impressive.
I have never used them on a system that has gylcol, though, and why I mention that is the subject of a long thread already, just don't do it.
I like to use them when I need to install 2" and bigger copper runs for heating. The fittings are a lot more expensive, but the install goes so much quicker that I feel it is worth it. I only went as small as 1" once and most likely would not do it again.
The other important feature is that you don't have to have a tech who can braze do this work, but any junior tech who knows how to install nice work can do it.
They were originally designed for use on ships because both copper joinst and threaded joints were breaking apart due to the ocean heaving. From what I understand this does not happen now that they all use propress for ship piping.
Respectfully,
Paul B. Shay
pshay@arealgoodplumber.com
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Differing opinions...
One person here had some issues with glycol seeps, and that post almost broke a record for the most posts ever. Mostly people calling the manufacturer out wanting to know why they denied any responsibility on the leaks. To my knowledge it was never resolved.
Personally, I have THOUSANDS of joints with the tool and fittings, many of them in glycol and I have not had any long term post installation leaks. Out of all those, I've had one leaker, which we replaced immediately and moved on. I suspect the installer wasn't paying attention and 'clipped" the O ring on the way on to the pipe.
The fittings are considerably more expensive than conventional sweat fitings, but when doing wet interfaces, it is untouchable.
Labor savings alone will warrant the use of the tool.
My guys in the field don't like the weight of the corded tool, nor the cockeyed appearance sometimes associated with the work. Other than that, I think they're the bee's knees. And yes, you can turn the fitting after pressing, but they recommend you re-press once in the final position.
ME0 -
School's Out...
There has been evidence of problems, well documented and appearing to be leaks. The majority opinion here however, seems to suggest the fittings and tools are so effective and their personal experience to date suggests there are no leak issues, and therefore continue to embrace the system.
We heard the cost of reducing ells and tees to almost cancel the "savings" from less labor.
We also did a lot of steam and steel, some copper, and some Light DWV and PEX. I could never justify the initial outlay, much less the fitting costs for the work we seem to get, where a 2x1x1-1/2" BM fitting is not rare.
I don't have the stomach for reducers, and of course on gas, bushings are out anyhow.0 -
ProPress
We have about 20 + tools that we've sold over the past 2 years. We have had no issues other than some guy trying to press onto a piece of 2" DWV by accident.
Repairs that would take a day the old way can be as little as an hour with ProPress.
Check out these job photos.0 -
Move joint
Yes you can move a joint after a press, I've done it on a boiler header I believe either 11/4" or 1" branch with a 3/4 outlet. Moved it just a couple of degrees to line up with the other branches. It takes some elbow grease and some length to get leverage but it can be done. I believe that Ridgid suggested re-pressing but the joint held fine - no leaks.0
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