Durock vs Hardibacker

Big Ed

I use Durock on any area where tile is layed. Even beyond the shower area. Its a forever job. Green board has a layer of paper that could lift and pop the tile.You should have the seams taped to help prevent any water migration even on cement board . The tar paper ? See no harm only extra protection. Check with the manufacture...

The other brand.....Ligher! Easyer to work with... I know of no track record on it..sorry

John_157

Here's a question that I cant get a stright answer for.
When using a backerboard in the shower area what is the best to use? Durock, Hardibacker, Denshield? Lots of forums out there but hey who better to ask than a plumber who probably gets to see if these boards actually hold up?
2nd behind the board are you supposed to put 15lb felt paper? Some people say the boards are porus and will soak up water. Thanks John

Ken_40

Virtually all cementatious

materials are identical.

Having done a few shower enclosures, the most important element is NOT the backer, but the framing and blocking behind it!

Let's face it, the moisture is NEVER supposed to pass through the tile or surround! If it does, using 1/2" titanium won't prevent framing decay!

I always use 12 o.c. framing AND bridging for the surround(s) or, 2X6's not 2X4's on 16" o.c.

The newer vinyl grout appears to be promising. The shrinking is ooffset by the mildly flexible nature of he material, always a + when tiling.

I've done about ten baths. The three I was able to monitor for years were all "green-board" (water resistant sheet=rock) and were like new after 20-years of heavy use. The secret? extremely rigid framing (also a few "blockers - for grab bar anchors and even more rigidity), and leaving an air space of 1/2"+ between the tub rim and backer board.

Placing the backer (regardless of type used) 1/2"+ above the bottom most grout line, prevents water migration into the backer, which ultimately ends up in the framing, which ultimtaely results in rot, expansion and contraction grout cracks and more seepage.

CC.Rob_2

I prefer durock

Have used durock for a few applications around the house, and another one going in soon. Very straightforward.

The official word on application is here

http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/Documents/Installation_and_Appl_Guides/DrckCement_Board-Installation_Guide.pdf

For floors, I have not used felt paper under, as strict interpretation of the application guide says the backer should be bonded then fastened. But I think many people just fasten without bonding. Bond it.

hr

do a search at www.

JLConline.com Irecall they did a comparison between various brands. Or maybe it was FHB.com Too many mags sometimes.

Water does pass thru tile jobs, usually at the grout joints. Hense the need to use sloped shower pans with weep hole drain fittings.

I've not seen the feltpaper trick. Seems it would be hard to apply on a stud wall without plywood first. Sounds overkill to me.

The Tile Associations websites have good drawings of approved and listed application methods, try their also.

hot rod

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ALH_4

Tile

I have used Durock and Denshield and have to say I prefer Durock even though it is more difficult to work with. I always trowel (1/4" square notch) thinset to the subfloor before laying the Durock in a floor installation. Durock and Denshield can be screwed directly to the wall studs also. Screws should be 6" on center.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Have been using Durock for about 15 years and the first job is still perfect. Only problem with one job is a crack that telegraphed through everything along the line where an addition was made to the room. I ALWAYS mud the Durock to the substrate and greatly prefer T&G "Sturdi-Floor" plywood.

Have made numerous "overflow pans" for clothes washing machines. One held water from a slightly leaking washer for well over a year without a sign of leaking below.

Have done a number of showers as well--oldest about 10 years. I do use tar paper (30#) behind the cement board for the shower walls (vertical) with the corner sheets always running through the corner with at least 10" or so of felt on both sides of the corner.

I tape (fiberglass mesh) and mud (thinset) ALL joints.

Have used a bit of Hardibacker (or similar) but only in semi-wet locations--tub surrounds, countertops, etc. Seems awfully light and almost too easy to work with. Might try in a wet location someday, but will wait years to find out if there are any reported problems.

I've heard very good things about the Kerdi system for any location (including wet) but have never used.

Chris_82

Ditto the durock,

a litle harder to work with but longer lasting and every floor I have seen using it, still the only underlayment that works with 12 x 12 tile. just make shure to use the epoxy coated durock screws and not drywall screws too many times the cheep drywall screws rust and split.

Stephen C.

Kerdi

Absolutely Kerdi.

Keep the water away from whatever substrate you use.

I have done all sorts of methods and nothing beats the Kerdi concept.

Nice square stainless drain for showers too. Easy cuts for tiler.

See Schluter website for video.

HTH

Stephen

Drew_2

Shower Waterproof

True these boards are considered waterproof, but they are not vaporproof. Without a vapor barrier, you will have codensation in the wall cavity. Think of a shower against an outside wall?
To blow my own horn, go to www.noblecompany.com an click on the picture of the shower. The details in the instruction and the video for proslope may answer some of the questions.

mtfallsmikey

Where were all of these great materials

30 years ago...I've beat enough lead shower pans to be a walking English wheel!

Jamie_5

shower backers

I have not put anywhere near as many showers in as Ken, but I'm going to partly disagree with him, at least to the extent he is saying that water shouldn't pass through the grout. Grout is also a cementitious product and can let moisture through, though sealing will prevent much to all of it. John Bridge, who by the way has an excellent online tile forum, says all showers are properly designed on the assumption that the tile and grout will seep. There are various ways to design with that in mind: cementboard backed up by a plastic barrier between it and the studs, RedGuard, or Kerdi membrane.

Ken is right about adequate blocking and rigid framing and about the gap at the bottom to prevent wicking. Both are very important.

Epoxy grout is great, but mix small amounts at a time and don't stop. It seems to set faster than regular grout.