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noisy hot water boiler

Wheeler Plumbing & Heating (Bryant Wheeler)
Member Posts: 17
sounds to me with the tylendine laars boiler it needs to be piped with a by pass if not it will make alot of noise.it should be a 3/4" pipe that goes from the supply pipe to the return pipe with a ball valve inbetween if you look at the piping instuctions that come with the boiler.look to see if it is the same or if you have one good luck.that boiler holds very little water so when the cold return water hits the hot water in the boiler that results in the popping noise.the bypass prevents this from going on.
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Comments
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noisy hot water boiler
My gas-fired boiler sounds like a popcorn popping machine when the burner is on.I have replaced the expansion tank.That stopped the pressure relief valve from releasing water,but I still get a few drops in the course of the day.I installed an automatic air bleeder but it does not change the popping sound.does anyone know how these automatic bleeders work?Is the correct way of draining and flushing the boiler,by shutting the incoming and outgoing gate valves,shut the power off,opening the drain and let the water supply on and flush out the sediment?0 -
how long its been doing
How long the relief valve been leaking and is your circ pump on return side of boiler? How old the system? You may have layer of lime/scale at bottom of boiler cause the extreme temps from fire to water, making it sounds like perlocating.. And another question, is the expaniosn tank properly sized to begin with? Most of the packaged boiler I've seen are usually too small when installed on older cast iron systems.0 -
what is the...
brand of boiler...it it a raypak or laars boiler? kpc
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Popcorn
Possible hot water leaking/dripping onto the burner tubes when the are firing making this sound ??0 -
Death Rattle
You have a heavy layer of mineral build up in your tank.Too late for flushing . What you hear is the energy breaking though . I call it a "Death Rattle" because most likely you have a glass lined steel tank . The glass protects the steel from corosion . With a layer of minerals above the glass , the glass super heats from lack of contact with water and breaks up . Water will seep down and eat up the steel tank........
Cure .... replace the tank ..You have a average of 5 year from the start of the noise until it leaks . Next time flush it down twice a month and size it to your needs don't over heat for water volume.0 -
its a boiler....
not a water heater...
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Big Ed is right on the money...
I would also suggest having your water tested and possibly have a water treatment system installed.0 -
Which means
it will need to be flushed out to remove the muck in the bottom. It's probably best to have a pro do this.
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popping boiler
sounds to me with the tylendine laars boiler it needs to be piped with a by pass if not it will make alot of noise.it should be a 3/4" pipe that goes from the supply pipe to the return pipe with a ball valve inbetween if you look at the piping instuctions that come with the boiler.look to see if it is the same or if you have one good luck.0 -
Some of you guys are good... you know what brand the boiler is without the homeowner having to tell you!!!
Is it ESP? Man I wish I could do that. :-)
If it has an internal bypass circulator it may have failed.
Check your amp draw if there's a cir.0 -
Edit Post ??
.....or Swnoel and I missed read it... Sorry~
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Mineral Build Up
Hove them check for a leak or non heat pex in the system.0 -
where's Wally?
Where's Wally with answer to our questions? What's brand boiler is this?0 -
noisy boiler
Thanks guys for taking the time to answer my questions.I forgot to tell you what kind of boiler I have.It's a National U.S. by Crane Co. out of Chicago.The model no. is 5-W-99A PA.I don't know how old it is.0 -
unable to find
Unable to find that numberin my dad's books.. Its older than 1974... And its time to have it replaced with pump on the supply side and the works... Where are you located?0 -
That boiler was made in the 1960s
National Radiator Co. and United States Radiator Co. merged in the late 1950s. Crane bought them out in the early 1960s, then sold the boiler operation to Slant/Fin in 1970 or so. But the design pre-dates the sale to Crane, according to a reference book which shows this model listed under National-US.
An atmospheric gas boiler that old might be 60% efficient at best, over the course of a heating season. I'd look into replacing it with something better. The new modulating/condensing boilers show some promise but they can't exhaust thru your chimney, and local codes and manufacturer's specs might preclude their installation in your house if a proper exhaust point can't be found.
You could also use a wet-base oil-designed boiler that comes with a gas burner as a factory option, such as the Solaia series or the Smith G8. These surround the flame completely with water-backed cast iron except where the burner is mounted, unlike an atmospheric boiler where the burners are entirely below the cast-iron sections. This type of boiler can exhaust thru a chimney, and by swapping burners, can be switched from gas to oil firing so you can burn whichever fuel is cheapest per BTU.
Whichever type you go with, its capacity should be based on an accurate heat-loss calculation on your house. When this is done, it will likely indicate that a smaller boiler is needed. This of course will cost less to buy and to operate.
Here's a pic of a Solaia we installed, with a gas burner supplied by the factory.
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